If my math is correct the motor is 1725 RPM, Gear reduction is 60:1. that gives you approximately 29 RPM out of the reduction unit. Rounding blade length to 96 inches. That is 8 ft so 8X29= 232 FPM if I go 1:1 to the drive pulley. It works for me.
"Billy G"
Bill,
Did your saw not come with trunnions or are these an upgrade from the stock ones?
I like the blade guides you made, very nice. I changed out the guides on my saw with after market ones that were kind of $$$. That was before I had any machining tools so I couldn't make them myself.
I think you will find that the saw will be one of your most used tools, I know I do. Mine is a converted Rigid brand from Home Depot and has been a great addition to the shop.
Nice work, thanks for the post.
Dan
Hi Dan;
The 2 pictures below show only one of the original trunions. They were cast crap. The bolt tabs seperated from both trunions due to vibration and the saw was only cutting wood at the time. I don't believe vibration will be a problem.
"Billy G"
So that's another area I will keep an eye on. The tension adjuster casting is another area that is weak on these saws. A replacement piece was one of my first projects with the mill. The new one is steel and won't be a problem down the road.
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Nice work Bill, this is something I want to do if I ever find a saw at a decent price. (or free)
On your blade speed you need to use the wheel circumference in the calculation. A 14 inch wheel is 3.7 feet around, so at 29 rpm your blade speed will be 106 fpm.
Thanks, that's what I got when I redid it. I goofed big time with that one. I got a circumferance of 43.96 inches. 106 will be too slow so I have to run 2:1 from the reduction unit. We need to get over 200 FPM at the blade wheel. Again thank you for the correction.
"Billy G"
Glad to help Bill, isn't that why we're here.
Bill, wouldn't you be better off going 2:1 to the gear reducer? I'd opt for step pulleys from motor to reducer and something like a cog belt or chain drive from the reducer to the drive wheel. Just my take.
Bill, here's a couple of shots of the blade guides I made for the 9 x 17 bandsaw I made.
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I bought Torrington eccentric stud roller guides for the blade sides and just used regular ball bearings for the rear.
Regarding my previous post. I just figure most metal cutting band saws use direct of postive drive coupling to the drive wheel because of the slower speed, as in,
slow speed belt drive = slippage.
(12-24-2012, 10:18 AM)stevec Wrote: [ -> ]Bill, here's a couple of shots of the blade guides I made for the 9 x 17 bandsaw I made.
I bought Torrington eccentric stud roller guides for the blade sides and just used regular ball bearings for the rear.
Regarding my previous post. I just figure most metal cutting band saws use direct of positive drive coupling to the drive wheel because of the slower speed, as in,
slow speed belt drive = slippage.
Nice blade guides Steve. I like the large adjustment range.
Ed