hi all.
I have a Rhøm-chuck with a MT4 arbor that I have to remove, on a way that it's not beeing damaged
.
Here we go:
First drill thrue the chuck body whith a 5mm drill, insert a drift and it with a 3-pounder and off it go. Then degrease the new MT3 arbor and chuck taper ,insert the arbor and wacck it with a deadblow hammer an the job's done
Best reg.
CS
Works for me.
You can also make a wedge with a slot in it to slip over the small end of the arbor.
Tom
Well done. Whats the disc on the workbench in the first photo?
(01-11-2013, 07:03 PM)TomG Wrote: [ -> ]Works for me.
You can also make a wedge with a slot in it to slip over the small end of the arbor.
Tom
That is the most commonly used way. In fact, Jacobs makes a wedge, though with a size differential that big one could probably use an automotive ball joint separator. The hard ones are when the the mounting taper (MT2, MT3, etc) is actually smaller than the Jacobs taper in the chuck itself. Those often have to be knocked out the way crankshafter shows.
easy enough to just disassemble the chuck to knock the arbor out which also allows you to clean and re lube it.
or if the chuck is naff cut the chuck off with a sliting disk
The more gradual taper of the double Jacobs wedges in my opinion is more desirable than a single ball joint tool or even two ball joint tools from opposite sides.
(01-13-2013, 08:43 PM)mikecwik Wrote: [ -> ]The more gradual taper of the double Jacobs wedges in my opinion is more desirable than a single ball joint tool or even two ball joint tools from opposite sides.
Hi all.
I could have made a pair of wedges, but drilling thrue the body of the chuck was the easyest way
Since it's a Rohm$$ chuck with solid body, it's no way to reach the taper.
krv3000: Yes I could have cut the arbor and drill/ bore out the taper, did it last time I had to change taper on an other chuck.
But the way I did it this time I rescued a MT4 B16 chuck arbor.BTW: the chuck is doing well
Best reg:
CS. in freeazing cold Norway
To quote TomG, "works for me" too.