MetalworkingFun Forum

Greg, will the 3" cylinder give you the tonnage you need?
What's the height of the centre line of the cylinder above the beam.
Mine is 6¼" from the beam and the pusher is about 13" tall.
I split wood up to 30" +/- dia. what size will you be doing? 
Curious minds (?) want to know.

Steve

Sizing the cylinder was why I was questioning you on the 4 way. With that I think Id need a much bigger cylinder. The splitter I have now has a 3 inch, I can and do jam it but only have a single stage pump running it at 1800 psi, with a two stage and 3000 psi I'll be gaining over 50% force. I kept the pusher and wedge at 6 inches to reduce the flex on the beam. Thats what I have now and same as you split stuff I can't lift, one year actually had to borrow a saw with a 20 inch bar to cut up, my 16 wouldn't meeting the middle. The processor should handle 24 inch logs.

Milled the splitting wedge from a piece of 1 x 6 cold roll.


Still have the riser block in the column so had to put a spacer under the work to reach it.

Nice wedging action but I need to come up there and give your poor mill a good cleaning and caressing.

Ed

That looks just like the piece I lost  
Looking good  
 
DaveH

Who said you lost it Dave.
Thats not dirt Ed its patina.
Welding and grinding in the shop puts a lot of dust in the air, any oiled surface becomes black.
Should get a photo of the lathes though, Charlie wiped them down the other day.

Here you go Ed, two clean lathes, but I can't take the credit.





Finished welding the splitter. It will fit 30 inch long blocks for the boiler, sure makes it look long.



Was using this to hold the ears apart as I was welding. Two bolts into in this case a 1/2 inch joiner nut. Makes a really good jack for tight places. Put whatever bolts in it to make up the length you need.

Greg, does that Hardinge have a motor on the carriage??

Yep Vinny. Its a HLV the predecessor to the HLVH. Has a narrower bed and the speed change is done with that crank on the left side of the stand. Got it on a government sale. Apparently had sat in a warehouse for decades, so long they didn't know where it had come from. Needed some work, the belts had deformed from sitting and the grease in it had turned to a varnish like substance. They're a joy to use. And for the moment its actually clean.
Just realized what you were asking, yes, Hardinge was apparently concerned that a gear drive off the headstock could set up harmonics so they isolated the drive with a variable speed DC motor for feeds. Two clutches engage the travel and cross feed. Threading is done with a leadscrew, through a dog clutch in the headstock. That small rod below the leadscrew is for the kick outs. You set the stops at either end of the thread you want to cut. Once you engage the half nuts they stay closed. When you get to the end of the thread the stop shifts the rod and disengages the dog clutch, but the spindle keeps turning, at that point there is a lever on the compound that you flip to retract the tool, flip the threading lever over and the carnage goes back to the other stop. Set your next cut return the tool and flip the direction lever to make the next pass. Incredible quick to thread with, Hardinge recommends not threading over 1000rpm though.

(04-13-2015, 08:17 PM)f350ca Wrote: [ -> ]Hardinge recommends not threading over 1000rpm though.