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Full Version: Making New Gear Change Handles
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Ed,

You've probably already checked, but when a jaw is that far out on the chuck, always make sure to check for at least one full tooth engagement on the scroll. If not, it could become a projectile. Yikes

Tom
(03-24-2013, 09:28 AM)TomG Wrote: [ -> ]Ed,

You've probably already checked, but when a jaw is that far out on the chuck, always make sure to check for at least one full tooth engagement on the scroll. If not, it could become a projectile. Yikes

Tom

Tom,

Thanks for the tip. I'll check that before I start machining the parts.

Ed

Edit: checked and a good 2/3s of the jaw is in the scroll so good to go.
That's a good point - you also have to avoid overtightening and breaking teeth, even the opposite jaw could exert too much pressure. Grip on the sides.
I got some work done on the handles. Getting there slow but sure.

Ed

[attachment=4854]

Bill Gruby

Slow is better, less pressure. Lookjin good Ed.

"Billy G"
Looking good Ed. Thumbsup

Are you going to use a rotary table, corner rounding end mills, or the belt sander to round the ends?

Tom
(03-30-2013, 07:02 PM)TomG Wrote: [ -> ]Looking good Ed. Thumbsup

Are you going to use a rotary table, corner rounding end mills, or the belt sander to round the ends?

Tom

Tom,

I think I'm going to use the rotary table. I haven't used it in awhile so it's time to get some use out of it.

Ed
Looking good Ed. Remember, Rome wasn't built in a day (although I have visited some cities that look like they were Big Grin)
They're starting to look like handles now.

Ed

[attachment=4937]
Nice smooth transition from the radius to the tapered sides.
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