MetalworkingFun Forum

I need to tear mine apart. Had the table down low with an tall part on it, was rapid traversing the table when the far handle caught on something. Stalled the feed. Must have chipped or broke a tooth. It still moves but gives a distinct click every revolution.

It took me 6 years to break my first gear which was because I over run the knee when I was working on the machine.

I looked online and found Shars has them at $15 each, so being in Australia and the postage being the same for 1 or 4 I ordered 4.

They are easy to do and fit well just as original and I now have a spare gear in each power feed.

Dave

Hi Greg,
Just to add to above the gear you would have done is in the bottom, so no need to take it apart, just undo the 2 screws at the bottom, though some power feeds have no screws and just clip on.

It then has a center bolt that needs undoing, then place the gear on the bench. The gear is held in place with a curclip and 3 rubber inserts.
To get the gear back on you will need to use the vise to squeeze it together enough to get the curclip back on as it's a tight fit.


Dave

Thanks Dave. Guess I was over due, I've had this one 10 or 12 years. Think I understand what your saying. Will have a look at it when I get time.

thanks for the tips.....I havent taken it apart yet, my trouble isnt the lower large gear you see when you take the clip on cover off, its something with the direction lever ...whatever is on that, something feels stipped or something

A pleasant surprise today, or I had horse shoes up my ash. When I took the cover off the gear is laying in the cover. How did that fall off is my first thought then I spot the two little clips holding a SPARE in the cover.



Should order one now, but its working so why would I bother.

A lot of them come with a spare, or like mine a provision for a spare. I can't complain as I bought them cheap from the US.

If you stripped your gear just throw that one on, if not don't worry about buying one.

With the ones I bought I put a spare in each of the 3 so I know where they are when needed, but if it wasn't for my stupidity when making the coolant tray I wouldn't have needed one, LOL
Keep the power feed stops in place to prevent this happening.
I have used the poser feed a few times with the axis locked, but it just over loads it and I have to push the reset button. It was the hard hit of the knee bottoming out that killed mine.

Dave

Sometimes you get lucky. That must have been a good feeling being able to get it back up and running so quickly.

Ed

I've always wondered why I could barely see the "power light" on my table feed. Now I see it's because what I assumed was a bad LED, is actually a neon lamp under a plastic light tube/fiber optic.

Does anyone know what voltage/current that lamp runs at?
I would love to be able to replace mine with a LED that I can actually see when it's on.

Willie,

Typically, neon lamps are driven with 110 or 220V AC. You can run them with DC at about 90V. The life expectancy when driven with DC volts is reduced somewhat.

If the transformer on that board is a step-down transformer you might be able to make a simple rectifier with some filtering to drive a LED.

Ed