I have one of the original "Smithy" bandsaws, bought used in 1995 or so. It was probably 10 years old by then.
In the last year it seems like the blade just pops off more often. New blades, spring tension adjusted full tight, bushings still good.
Only thing Ive noted is the wheels do have a bevel to it. Tapers away from the flange. Before I go and "trim" the cast iron wheel, wanted to ask if anyone else has seen that issue. Keep in mind this has had 25 years of service, but still frustrating to be fitting the blade popping off.
If I use the saw in vertical mode... everything works fine, only when I put it to horizontal mode does the blade have problems.
Tom,
Try checking on the Yahoo 4x6 group. They have a bunch of threads on curing these types of problrms. There is also an excelent article in the files section on allignment and adjustment of the 4x6 saws.
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/4x6b...s/messages
You'll have to register to download the article, but check them out.
Chuck
(06-03-2014, 06:27 AM)chucketn Wrote: [ -> ]Tom,
Try checking on the Yahoo 4x6 group. They have a bunch of threads on curing these types of problrms. There is also an excelent article in the files section on allignment and adjustment of the 4x6 saws.
Thank You. This one is driving me nuts.... I'll review the articles when I get approved to the list.
Tom
(06-03-2014, 01:46 PM)roundrocktom Wrote: [ -> ] (06-03-2014, 06:27 AM)chucketn Wrote: [ -> ]Tom,
Try checking on the Yahoo 4x6 group. They have a bunch of threads on curing these types of problrms. There is also an excelent article in the files section on allignment and adjustment of the 4x6 saws.
Thank You. This one is driving me nuts.... I'll review the articles when I get approved to the list.
Tom
If it takes too long, let me know. I can e-mail it to you.
Chuck
Got the checklist.... at the bottom was "make sure the drive wheel doesn't have any axial movement (in and out). Uh, it has always had about a 1/4" of slop since I got it (used).
Need to address that issue first, then see what else happens. Does explain why it worked fine in vertical mode (blade never pops off), but in horizontal very hit and miss (frustrating!)
Oh... got a bunch of drops. 2.5" thick by 8" diameter. I wonder what the longest sawzall blade I can buy is.
It may need the angle of the free running wheel altering so the blade is pulled onto the wheel
Oh boy, driven wheel had 1/4" axial play. Upper had 0.150" play.
Took a while of trial and error to get both in same plane (good thing I had some 36" 1/4 x 1" 01 stock as a guide!).
Odd to see a brass drive gear (this is an old machine!)
Brass bushing should be good for another 20 years!
Thanks for the help.... just glad to have that saw running again!
(06-08-2014, 06:25 PM)roundrocktom Wrote: [ -> ]Odd to see a brass drive gear (this is an old machine!)
What's odd about a brass worm wheel (if that's what you mean by "drive gear")
(06-09-2014, 06:08 AM)stevec Wrote: [ -> ]What's odd about a brass worm wheel (if that's what you mean by "drive gear")
Yes, worm wheel. Cost is higher than steel, most China imports use steel gears as they don't think of long lasting brass/steel meshing.
The 1968 Datsun L16 distributor used brass/steel..... by mid 1969 it was two steel gears. Cost reduction! (nothing new today!).
