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Full Version: what's the best way to ream out 1 1/16 holes to 1 1/4
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Guys I want to ream the platen supporting holes in my hydraulic press out to 1 1/4" from 1 1/16". Will bridge reamers work? If so what progressive sizes should I buy to do the job properly, the steel is 1" thick, Thank you, Tackit
I'd look for a 3-flute core drill, 1-1/4" diameter.

What power tools do you have available to drive a drill or bridge reamer?
I never heard of a three flute core drill before PixMan, thanks.

I have a mag drill and a 8 amp porter cable spade handle drill.


I hope I can use the existing holes for guides so I can keep hole centers accurate.
Whilst I cannot answer your question, I just wanted to say that is a nice looking press. Did you make it?
(06-28-2014, 08:31 PM)Mayhem Wrote: [ -> ]Whilst I cannot answer your question, I just wanted to say that is a nice looking press. Did you make it?

Thank Mayhem and Yes I built it about 10 years ago. It's got a 50 ton cylinder. It's legs are 1 X 5 X 74" long. The box on top and platen are made out of 7" X .318 channel iron, the plate sides are 3/8. I built it for around $500 back then.
Here's what I'm going to use if it's the best way to do the work.

http://player.vimeo.com/video/63081466
What is the reason for enlarging the holes? If it is simply to have stronger pins would making some from a higher tensile strength steel achieve the same result?
(06-29-2014, 11:41 AM)Dr Stan Wrote: [ -> ]What is the reason for enlarging the holes? If it is simply to have stronger pins would making some from a higher tensile strength steel achieve the same result?

Dr Stan I have given that thought but I'm not able to determine what type of steel would do the job... I'm going by what other presses use. I made a mistake when I cut the holes on the press, unfortunately one of the presses I was copying used smaller 1" pins not larger ones. Most presses on websites when I built the press didn't give pin sizes so I used what I thought was the right size. It works the way it is but it's not right and it bothers me.
I would use an 1.25 counter bore with a 1.062 pilot on it in a mag drill, to run a bridge reamer thru that thick material will take some power.

DA
(06-29-2014, 01:27 PM)tackit Wrote: [ -> ]
(06-29-2014, 11:41 AM)Dr Stan Wrote: [ -> ]What is the reason for enlarging the holes? If it is simply to have stronger pins would making some from a higher tensile strength steel achieve the same result?

Dr Stan I have given that thought but I'm not able to determine what type of steel would do the job... I'm going by what other presses use. I made a mistake when I cut the holes on the press, unfortunately one of the presses I was copying used smaller 1" pins not larger ones. Most presses on websites when I built the press didn't give pin sizes so I used what I thought was the right size. It works the way it is but it's not right and it bothers me.

I misspoke in my first post as I should have said shear strength rather than tensile strength. I spent some time researching and found most hitch pins (which are designed to resist shearing) are made from SAE 1039 or 4140 and hardened to Rc 40 give or take. Here's a site with some good examples: http://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/pins/hitch.htm

Keep in mind the shear strength is based on the physical properties of the material and the area of the cross section placed in shear.

Since most of us (at least I do not) have easy & free access to a good heat treating facility things like a pin placed in heavy stress really ought to be purchased, not turned out on the trusty lathe.

So even though you're increasing the cross section I'd still seriously consider buying pins that have been properly hardened and tempered. There are several sources such as McMaster, Grainger, etc and they certainly are proud of their hitch pins. So I'd check with the local Ag/Construction equipment dealer and a good automotive parts house for their prices.

BTW, nice press. Smiley-signs107
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