I have the same lathe as Bob but I made my own stand. The lathe weighs about 1100lbs according to MSCs specs on it. I have not bolted my lathe to the floor. I used these leveling pads to level it and haven't had any problems with it.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=1026
Ed
(04-05-2012, 07:35 PM)stevec Wrote: [ -> ] (04-03-2012, 04:04 PM)doubleboost Wrote: [ -> ] (04-03-2012, 02:46 PM)DaveH Wrote: [ -> ]Hello Bob and welcome to MetalworkingFun
My answer to Q1. I doubt if any noticeable difference in the home workshop.
My answer to Q2 & Q3. Again probably no noticeable difference, go with the most cost effective.
Questions 4 & 5 I will have to think about them
Hang about Bob, others may have a different opinion
DaveH
Hi
Bob
Unless you are pushing things to the limit you will not notice any differance with the smaller tool size
I use a piston type tool holder and i am very happy with it
As far as parting tools go this is what i use
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GLANZE-CLAMP-T...46021476e0
I use the cheapest tips i can find
Mu previous lathe was fairly large (colchester Bantam).
My current lathe is much smaller so i modified my large tooling to fit , by milling a dove tail in them .
They go directly on to the tool post without a holder.
As far as tips go i would just use the most economical
There are loads of speed & feed charts on the net.
But for home work i would just experiment.
Dont forget carbide inserts like to be worked hard
John
John, I love the idea of dovetailing toolholders to fit a QCTP, but, one question, Is that a high speed steel dovetail cutter dovetailing your toolholder?
If yes, then let's revisit the newbie's (OP's) immediate (apparently) leaning toward carbide.
Properly ground HSS does a better job in many cases. it's part of the learning curve.
It is a high speed steel cutter (the tool holders have been annealed) but are still tough
John
Thanks John, I have a HSS dovetail cutter so now all I need to do is learn how to anneal the insert holders.
You need to get them up to orange heat and hold them there for 30 minutes then let them cool in the fire.
A domestic coke fire would do the job
The longer they "soak for the better"
John
(04-07-2012, 05:27 PM)doubleboost Wrote: [ -> ]You need to get them up to orange heat and hold them there for 30 minutes then let them cool in the fire.
A domestic coke fire would do the job
The longer they "soak for the better"
John
I cut mine without annealing with a 1 inch cobalt roughing endmill then used a single flute carbide dovetail cutter boh of which I bought for a reasonable price off e-bay. My RF45 Clone didn't even complain while doing it. Some were 1.5 inch Kennametal some were Sandvic 1.25 inch. I plan to drill + tap them for studs + knurled nuts for adjustment. tom
(04-07-2012, 08:01 PM)TOM REED Wrote: [ -> ]I cut mine without annealing with a 1 inch carbide roughing endmill then used a single flute carbide dovetail cutter boh of which I bought for a reasonable price off e-bay. My RF45 Clone didn't even complain while doing it. Some were 1/5 inch Kennametal some were Valenite 1.25 inch. I plan to drill + tap them for studs + knurled nuts for adjustment. tom
Pictures will be forthcoming, I assume?
Ed
Steve, get your shaper working, it will cut dovetails in just about anything.
Ya, Greg, someday. When I get a chance I'll take some pics of what I broke on it with the help of gravity, inertia and stupidity.
(04-07-2012, 08:03 PM)EdAK Wrote: [ -> ] (04-07-2012, 08:01 PM)TOM REED Wrote: [ -> ]I cut mine without annealing with a 1 inch carbide roughing endmill then used a single flute carbide dovetail cutter boh of which I bought for a reasonable price off e-bay. My RF45 Clone didn't even complain while doing it. Some were 1/5 inch Kennametal some were Valenite 1.25 inch. I plan to drill + tap them for studs + knurled nuts for adjustment. tom
Pictures will be forthcoming, I assume?
Ed
Sorry ED I didn't take any pics but check the post for an update the endmill was cobalt and the tools were kennametal and the new ones I did were SANDVIC. TOM