Can I use aluminum to make AXA toolholders? I would be running them on a South Bend 10K, so really heavy cuts aren't going to be an issue.
Online Metals carries a number of different alloys, but it certainly looks like good ol' 6061 is the most affordable. Any reason not to use it?
Steel would be cheaper, of course, but a lot tougher to work, especially while I'm learning how to do dovetails.
I tried 6061 on my mini-lathe once. Switched to 1018. The 6061 just didn't hold up.
I have made several QC tool holders out of 6061, as I had some available. Most of them are for light duty, such as DTI holders, and a spring winding jig. I do have a boring bar holder and a turning/facing holder, as I needed them before I had the finds to buy steel ones. The work well and gave me practice on dovetails. I also made a couple tool holders in the pattern of a V-block for cross drilling round stock, but haven't used them much.
Chuck
Vinnie,
When you did them in steel, did you harden them? In a non-production situatin, would it matter?
Hardening really wouldn't change the tensile strength of Young's Modulus of the material, so no real need to heat treat.
Given the cost of buying complete ones from CDCO (which need the hardware swapped out for better quality stuff from the git-go) is always an option because he sells them for less than most would spend buying raw material and tooling. I used to buy from Tools4Cheap.net, but he's out of them and closing down his business.
(11-06-2015, 12:45 PM)PixMan Wrote: [ -> ]Hardening really wouldn't change the tensile strength of Young's Modulus of the material, so no real need to heat treat.
Given the cost of buying complete ones from CDCO (which need the hardware swapped out for better quality stuff from the git-go) is always an option because he sells them for less than most would spend buying raw material and tooling. I used to buy from Tools4Cheap.net, but he's out of them and closing down his business.
Then why do they always say "hardened"? Sales hype?
I may go the CDCO route. I already have a bag of new set screws!
Hardened for wear and to prevent 'em dinging when you drop 'em - a ding on one of the mating surfaces would affect the fit so repeatability would suffer, one of the big plusses of a QCTP is not having to adjust the tool height every time and a burr or ding would shift the position it sat in?
Aluminum is not appropriate material for a tool holder. It lacks the strength and mass of steel so it would be unable to hold the tool in position against the forces of a cut, resulting in chatter. It also lacks the durability of steel, so it would get beat up in no time. Commercial tool holders are hardened and ground for durability and precision. I would suggest making them out of mild steel and case hardening them for durabilty. I harden all the tooling that i make. No sense putting a lot of work into making something if it's going to look like hell after a few uses.
Tom
If you just want "occasional use" holders with no concern for quality, do as Ken stated and purchase the cheap off the shelf holders. There's just no way you could make them for less than what you'd pay. Plus despite the allure of being a "fun" project.....it could very well be a "pull all your hair out" type of project!!
Though judging by the looks of your picture.....you have plenty to spare!!
Russ,
It might look heavy up front, but it's thinnin' out up top!
Tom G,
I'm waiting for the case hardening video! How do you get something the size of a toolholder hot enough? Do you need a forge? I've looked at a couple of one- and two-firebrick mini forges. Is that going to be needed?