MetalworkingFun Forum

I made this D1-4 adapter plate a while ago.
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This ER 25 collet chuck I’m making will fit directly on to the adapter plate.
It is shown in 2 parts Part A & Part B

Part A

A drawing showing what I am going to make.
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Started with a piece of bar stock 100mm diameter.
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Turned a portion down to rough size +3mm. So I can hold in the normal 3 jaw mode.
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Now it can be turned around to face and cut the register.
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Faced
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Now to cut the register. This is bored out 55mm diameter x 4mm deep.
Whenever I do a recess like this register I tend to drill a small hole, helps with the boring. (Just me)
This part of the operation is very important. The register needs to be right, constant checking is required, be patient and careful.
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Here is the register bored out – just possible to see the tip of the hole that was drilled.
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All the time I was checking that it’s mating part would just fit, just fit, and only just fit, – as tight and as close as you can.
This is a very important part of the operation, it needs to be done with luv and care. They should just go together with no perceptible play.
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Just cleaned up a little and a chamfer
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Now it is over to the mill to drill and counter bore 3 holes.
Continued in Part B


DaveH

Part B

Drilled and counter bored
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Here I have centre punched the adapter plate and the ER collet chuck. This will be the correct orientation of the two parts.
All of the remaining machining will be done with the collet chuck fitted to the adapter plate.
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On the lathe ready for the threading operation
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Threading done – quick eh! The treading operation can be seen here.
http://www.metalworkingfun.com/showthread.php?tid=320
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Now for the taper, so first a 17mm thru hole is drilled.
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At this point I marked how far a collet went into a commercially made holder. (Not just a pretty face)
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The compound slide is set over to 8 deg.
I cut the taper to about half way – now out comes the engineers blue (Prussian Blue) and a collet is carefully inserted into the taper. This what I got
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You can see it is mainly touching at the mouth of the taper, ignore the smudge down the side.
It is just a case of adjusting the compound slide angle. Now I put a dial gauge plunger onto the side of the compound table, so I know which way it is moving. And gives a bit of an indication of how much.
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After a couple of adjustments seems Ok
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It was at this point I decided to shorten the threaded part. Afterwards I carried on cutting the taper to the correct depth.
I think it is best to leave the nose part a little longer than required, just in case the collet does go into far, it can easily be corrected by facing the nose.
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And that is about it.
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And what are you going to do with it I hear you ask.

Well I can use it on the lathe, then take it (chuck and work piece) to the milling machine, and back again to the lathe without loosing too much accuracy and the need to keep setting it up.

Hope you enjoyed it, as much as I did making it and showing how I made it.

DaveH

Just a few more photo's

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DaveH

Nice
Dave
Very nice
One thing did you have something in the collett (to expand it) when you used the blue to mark the taper
I see you used Robs camera again (the one with the shiney metal filter)
Really is a first class job
John

Dave,

Nicely done and documented.

I was going to accuse you of using Rob's camera but John beat me to it.

Ed

Nice job. I have plans for at least 1 more ER40...Bob

HI and well dun

EdAK Wrote:Dave,

Nicely done and documented.

I was going to accuse you of using Rob's camera but John beat me to it.

Ed

It may just be photoshop'd to look that good.

(04-23-2012, 03:19 AM)Wongster Wrote: [ -> ]It may just be photoshop'd to look that good.

Ha - he's on to you Dave!!!

(04-23-2012, 05:51 AM)Mayhem Wrote: [ -> ]Ha - he's on to you Dave!!!

I'm just jealous...