MetalworkingFun Forum

Full Version: T-nuts; heat treat or not?
You're currently viewing a stripped down version of our content. View the full version with proper formatting.
I'm making some T-nuts out of a chunk of forklift tyne- presumed 4140- wondering whether I should heat-treat them when done or if I'm best leaving the material as-is to avoid making the threads brittle? They'll be threaded 1/2-13 UNC to match some existing hardware and set aside for use on the shaper.
If you haven't annealed the material before starting I'd leave it as it is - its probably already a nice balance of hardness/toughness.

Steve
I made a number of T nuts and just used 1018.
I doubt the ubiquitous Chinese ones we all use are anything more than 1018...
I like to harden any tools I make. It makes them much more durable, especially in the case of tee-nuts, which take quite a beating in use. Just be sure to temper them after hardening so they aren't brittle.

Tom
(09-18-2017, 04:22 AM)Pete O Wrote: [ -> ]I'm making some T-nuts out of a chunk of forklift tyne- presumed 4140- wondering whether I should heat-treat them when done or if I'm best leaving the material as-is to avoid making the threads brittle? They'll be threaded 1/2-13 UNC to match some existing hardware and set aside for use on the shaper.

I wouldn't bother to heat treat unless you will give them heavy use. I have made T-Nuts from CRS, even aluminum for light duty work holding. I use an aluminum T-Nut to hold a indicator on the mill. I threaded one end of a 3/8 shaft to fit the T-Nut. The indicator bracket slides over it and locks at any height. 
If you make T-Nuts, make sure  you deform the thread at the bottom , prevents the studs from chewing up the mill slot. Store bought T-Nuts are made that way. I do this with a hammer and cape chisel. 

mike
(11-03-2017, 04:54 PM)kwoodhands Wrote: [ -> ]I wouldn't bother to heat treat unless you will give them heavy use. I have made T-Nuts from CRS, even aluminum for light duty work holding. I use an aluminum T-Nut to hold a indicator on the mill. I threaded one end of a 3/8 shaft to fit the T-Nut. The indicator bracket slides over it and locks at any height. 
If you make T-Nuts, make sure  you deform the thread at the bottom , prevents the studs from chewing up the mill slot. Store bought T-Nuts are made that way. I do this with a hammer and cape chisel. 

mike

Good tips Mike.

Oh, and Welcome to the forum.

Ed