MetalworkingFun Forum

Well we had a member of Procol Harum bashing out the tunes last night - all targeted at those of a certain age :) Then finished off with and awesome firework display that must have ensured the entire village was awake !

http://www.procolharum.co.uk/

My friend Neill needed a couple bronze bushings made, and I had a 30" long bar of some unknownium bronze that he had given me last year. We think it's an aluminium bronze because of the color, the way it cuts and the appearance of having been centrifugal cast. Whatever it is it should be OK for the low speed, light duty application of rear swing arm bushings for an old Yamaha YSR50. It's a tiny little motorbike, no worries about swingarm twisting torque.

Quite a lot coming off the approximately 3-1/4" (85mm) bar to make bushings with a 23mm press diameter and 30mm major shoulder O.D. size.

still working on last years project, got in some time today with the sandpaper and wood.



DA

David,

That's got a BEAUTIFUL lustre to it now, well worth the efforts!

Have you fired it yet? How's the trigger pull feel? I assume you've not fired it enough (if at all) to get it sighted in, but I'm anxious to know how accurate you think it will be on the iron sights and/or with the long range sight leaf assembly.

(01-04-2015, 10:28 PM)PixMan Wrote: [ -> ]David,

That's got a BEAUTIFUL lustre to it now, well worth the efforts!

Have you fired it yet? How's the trigger pull feel? I assume you've not fired it enough (if at all) to get it sighted in, but I'm anxious to know how accurate you think it will be on the iron sights and/or with the long range sight leaf assembly.

Ken,

After I get done sanding on it I rub a little Old English furniture oil on it for dark woods so I can see how many and where the scratches are at.

no I haven't fired it yet, when I do I probably won't shoot it enough to actually sight it in, unless I can find someplace that has over 500 yards, no sense taking a long range rifle down to the river and shoot frog with it.

I had to make a new sight base for the sight as the first one I made had a little hiccup in it that had the sight sitting crooked on the rifle.


Trigger pull right now isn't too bad I don't have a scale to see what the actual poundage is but I have most of the creep out of it so that its pretty smooth.

I still have a ways to go with it before I can say its finished mostly its surface prep getting it ready for finishes like bluing and case coloring.

My biggest thing is to not get in a hurry and screw it up, which I thought that I had a couple times with the wood, but that's down to bedding the parts in and sanding.

DA 

bored out this wheel to fit a 7/8" motor shaft


Then made a bushing so I can broach a 3/16" keyway in it.


DA

Drilled and re-tapped a buggered up hole to install a heli-coil insert. Someone conveniently ran a bolt into the top of this cylinder head (at an angle) with an impact gun. Once the bolt was removed and tore out half of the threads it didn't want to go back in. I wanted to just set the entire engine up on the table (5HP Tecumseh, 2 cycle) but of course it was way too tall to fit under the spindle with a drill chuck, and I don't own a 21/64" R-8 collet.  

Had to split the crankcase and lose the lower half of the motor. Fit like a champ then.... 

[attachment=9837]

Not so much a project, a bit of a preview and a bit of mail, but it was done in the shop.

Got off work a little early today and got into the shop at 3:30PM to help Neil make another 316 stainless steel shaft. This one was a Ø 10mm x 240mm long "hex head bolt" that would be the new rear swingarm pivot for his little Yamaha YSR50 mini bike. I didn't stop to take photos of me roughing out, finishing or threading the Ø 7/8" rod down to the 10mm with 25mm of M10x1.25 thread. Suffice to say that it went fairly quickly as far as getting it to 10mm went. The finishing to fit the bronze bushings we made the other day was a little more tedious. I turned it to 10mm, but the bushing we were using for sizing still didn't fit. I matched the diameter to the original steel part at Ø 0.390", still tight. It turned out that the 10mm drill he bought to size the holes in the bushings apparently cut a bit small. We polished it until it fit.

The lathe had to came apart a little bit to change the gears for metric single point threading, but we got the M10x1,25 thread done. now I faced the problem of milling the hex. I have a hexagonal 5C collet block and a good quality spindexer, but no 10mm nor 25/64" 5C collet and the 13/32" collet wouldn't close down enough to grip for milling. Now in the past I've just hit the lathe and made a slotted aluminum bushing to grip the oddball diameters. I didn't feel like shanging the gears on the lathe back, so a perfect excuse to employ my as-yet-unused-by-me Walter dividing head!

First, remove the vise from the machine to make room. Remind me to buy a small assortment of 1/2-13UNC hex head bolts from 3/4" to 2" long. Anyhow, got it secured on the mill, only to find I need to make a chuck key for the Rohm chuck that Neil and I struggled to get back on the head. I had taken it off to clean things up. What a PITA to get that back on! Ok so now to use the indexing feature of my dividing head. No dice using that for the hex, it's a 25 hole indexing plate.

So now to jog my memory back to trade school, the last time I had to figure numbers for a dividing head. 360 degrees/40 turns = 9 degrees per turn. 360 divided by 6 for the six flats = 60 degree increments. 60 degrees divided by 9 = 6.666666 turns per flat of the hex, or six and 2/3rds of a turn.

My only dividing plate for the unit has rows of holes numbering 63, 57, 49, 37, 36, 29, 24 and 22. Any number that can be divided by 3 is usable, so for 2/3rds of a turn, 42 holes on the 63 hole row or 24 holes on the 36 hole row. I chose the latter. Set the two adjustable arms for 24 holes and off we go. It came out perfect



What a pleasure to be able to use that thing which has been sitting in my stainless steel roll-around cabinet for the past few months! I will make a 9mm chuck key as soon as I get a chance though. Tightening the chuck with a wrench across a big screwdriver isn't a good long term solution. All cleaned up and out of the shop by 7:00PM.

Glad to see that you finally found a job for it. I would have been a shame to see it reside in your roll cab and collect dust. One project I have in mind for when I get my mill finished is the make up three new bolts for the ram adapter. I have the square and hex ER32 collet block, so it should be a simple project.