The young lad got himself a 125 dirt bike. Wanted a back rack for camping gear. We came up with this today. Found some 5/8 tubing from an old bed frame, the right dia for the tubing bender I built. My steel welding wire has gotten rather tarnished, was getting lots of porosity with the Tig, tried stainless rod, does that ever weld nice.
A farm repair. Pretty crude, Dave dropped in with this pinion from a hay rake, missing a tooth. Built it up with weld and used an angle grinder to shape it. He had another one I could use as a gauge, blueing showed the contact. Told him this one had a tail light warranty.
Doesn't have to look pretty to work Greg. Some of my repairs look uglier than a hat full of busted arseholes but it is the end result that matters.
(09-05-2016, 09:08 PM)f350ca Wrote: [ -> ]Told him this one had a tail light warranty.
Smart move Greg, but now that probably means that tooth will outlast all of us.
Nicely done.
Are you going to show the repaired gear? Or just that chewed up one?
Like the bike rack, looks like it came out of the factory. How about a photo of the bike assembled with the rack in place?
Sorry for the delay Pete, kept forgetting to snap a photo.
A two-man project while Mayhem was visiting me. He had asked for some pointers on using a surface grinder as he has one now. I suggested we make a low but big V-block to help setup angle milling tool blocks for the quick change tool post he's got on his newer lathe. Sketched it up, cut up a piece of 2" x 4" x 5" 1018 CRS to 4" long and went at it. Of course 4140 pre heat treated would have been my choice, but this is all I had and it'll work fine.
Start by setting it in my vise at 45º and hogging it away. Yeah, could have perhaps sawn it out rough but milling it away took under an hour with a Walter F4041 shoulder mill. About 650rpm (425 sfm) and fed by hand, 0.100 depth per pass. Lost almost half it's weight.
Lightening it up a bit more, 4 holes of 15.3mm though removed nearly 11 ounces. Two down, two to go.
First ground the long side clean and square, then a creative way to hold square and parallel for establishing the large flat surface square to the sides.
Clamp to a good angle iron I have, grind the top surface flat, then flip it over and grind parallel. Using my Starrett bevel protractor to set the 45º angle exact, clamp to the angle iron and grind flat the surface we'd milled for the Vee. Dressing a relief into the face of the wheel, we face ground the adjacent surface in the same setup. With one minor setback resolved, we got it done.
And the final result, every flat surface on it ground square, flat and parallel. It came out GREAT! We're both very happy we did it.
You can just make out the nice cross-hatch pattern from face grinding.
Why am I not there for this?
I been slowly making a English wheel for the shed an today while I was in the parts shed son says how bout a sheet roller an bead roller ol fella ..mmm ok need gears or sprockets or chains or all the above then just as I was goin to shut the door had a brain fart
dug out a heap of Harley twincam chain driven cams and the chains bearings ect from 88 cube to 96 cube most are from motors ive rebuilt with geardrive cams ect so now got to sort the pipe ect an look at making some dies .as if I don't have plenty to do lol if any you fellas in aussie land want some if ya do the post ill give ya some
heres few picts
then he said how bout making a steel log for beating out of leftover forge bits plus I started other day with brake drum forge thing is I need him to pick up the heavy bits an to weld looks like I don't do any bird watching for a while [not fetherd types lol]