MetalworkingFun Forum

Fine work!
R

(11-25-2017, 11:42 PM)Highpower Wrote: [ -> ]Beautiful piece of work Greg. As usual...  

Finished the belt sander upgrade, helped the thing out.. Not a metal grinder, can get some good finish results

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Greg

Drilling a hole through an insulated wall usually results in a massive birds nest as the fibreglass insulation wraps around the bit. Came up with this idea today,


I needed to run 1 inch conduit through the back wall of the shop. First I used a hole saw to cut through the inside sheeting. Then simply pushed the tubing covered bit through the insulation. While holding the tube against the outer sheeting I drilled through. No birds nest. Then used a hole saw from the outside with the pilot hole to locate it.

Seeing the quality of the work you guys turn out its almost embarrassing to post this, but here goes...

Made a scraper from start to finish tonight. Quite satisfying to complete something in one session, as normally my projects are spread over a number of evenings.
Apart from the new carbide insert, the rest was just some scrap 25x4 HRS flat, an old paint roller handle and a M6 screw.
Its a bit rough, but seems functional. I haven't done any scraping before, just watched lots of videos and done a bit of reading.
I know the scraper definitely needs a radius on the cutting edge as its pretty much straight now.

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Steve

(11-22-2017, 01:07 PM)Robert Wrote: [ -> ]How in the world did you end the thread like that without cutting a relief down to the minor diameter? Do you have a method to automatically disengage the leadscrew?
Robert

An option for non-Hardinge owners is to set the threading tool up on the back of the part and run the spindle in reverse. Then you can feed the tool from left to right to cut a right hand thread and your reflexes only need to be good enough to keep from running into the tailstock.  Sometimes mine are questionable even at that.  

Tom

(12-02-2017, 10:03 AM)TomG Wrote: [ -> ]

(11-22-2017, 01:07 PM)Robert Wrote: [ -> ]How in the world did you end the thread like that without cutting a relief down to the minor diameter? Do you have a method to automatically disengage the leadscrew?
Robert

An option for non-Hardinge owners is to set the threading tool up on the back of the part and run the spindle in reverse. Then you can feed the tool from left to right to cut a right hand thread and your reflexes only need to be good enough to keep from running into the tailstock.  Sometimes mine are questionable even at that.  

Tom

This is a practice I learned in the Navy years ago and use it virtually 100% of the time for internal threads.  Just make sure you have a cam lock chuck or at least a taper spindle nose type of mount and not a threaded spindle and chuck.

(12-02-2017, 10:03 AM)TomG Wrote: [ -> ]

(11-22-2017, 01:07 PM)Robert Wrote: [ -> ]How in the world did you end the thread like that without cutting a relief down to the minor diameter? Do you have a method to automatically disengage the leadscrew?
Robert

An option for non-Hardinge owners is to set the threading tool up on the back of the part and run the spindle in reverse. Then you can feed the tool from left to right to cut a right hand thread and your reflexes only need to be good enough to keep from running into the tailstock.  Sometimes mine are questionable even at that.  

Tom

This is the way I always do it. Internal and external. The only time I didn't was the first time I did an ACME thread, and that was only 'cuze I was sure I'd have to redo the tool bit a few times (turned out I only had to once) and wanted it to be convenient.

(12-02-2017, 06:41 AM)SteveG Wrote: [ -> ]I know the scraper definitely needs a radius on the cutting edge as its pretty much straight now.

Steve

And a double bevel on the front face. (Gives you 2 edges to scrape with.)

Your scraper looks good Steve! But looks don't mean anything to the part you are scraping. My first scraper was an old file (curved tooth) that I ground the teeth off of and radiused the end. It worked but a sharp edge didn't last very long.

I copied an idea for a powered lapping tool from someone on another forum and added some of my own features. Easy to make with simple construction with a wood 'tool post' that has the bevel angle for the blade cut into the top of the post already. The swinging 'ladder' was my idea for doing different radius' on the cutting blades. I did the same thing on my carbide grinder for roughing out the radius and the bevel angle. A slice of round cast iron for the lap, and some 10 micron diamond paste puts a mirror finish and a razor edge on a piece of carbide.

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Thanks Highpower.
I picked up a couple of chinese 150mm diamond lapping discs off ebay a couple of weeks back (only about $4 each delivered). Have 600#, 1500# and 3000# ones to play with.
Also managed to get a cheap $20 import grinder to run them on, just needs some backing plates made up. That was on my list for this weekend but the bits I grabbed from the scrap parts at work for stock turned out to be some sort of very hard material - a file doesn't even look at making a mark on them. I could possibly turn them with carbide tools on the lathe but have nothing to make a hole in the center so will get some more suitable material.
I'm planning a diamond cup wheel for the other end of the grinder.

I like your wood base and support - nice quick way of getting something working, and one can always remake it later if required (although usually they work well enough that it never happens!!).

Steve