Wa, I took the handwheel out of "inventory" (however "pile" may be more accurate) . I think I ground the chrome off the socket and then machined it round (er) with a carbide tool.
I do torque with it but depending on the job I sometimes use the original handle to give it a bit more torque. That's why I was saying "In retrospect I should have used a deep socket and left the sq. hole there." I could then use swivel tip power bar without removing the handwheel.
I did have to make a handle for the handwheel.
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I just ordered an 8" handwheel from Reid. It might look a little oversized, but the vise does, too. Since turning the socket is such a bear, and my accuracy for press fitting leaves something to be desired, I think I'll plan to dimple the socket and use a setscrew in the wheel. Maybe two. I wonder if a cobalt drill will be (enough) better?
I like the idea of leaving the drive hole on the socket, and using the bar if needed.
Wa, my handwheel measures 7" D and it's on a 6" Kurt clone-copy-plagarism. I decided to remove the swivel base on the advice of Harold the 5th (my "old" forum) and notice the swivel vice handle , being lower, was now clunking into the in/out (I forget my X,Y,Zs) feed ways so the "spinner" handwheel came to fruition. It's really sweet when going from large workpiece to small and vice versa.
Hi,
Nice job on making it work. I've found over the years of modifying tools that it pays to be care about what you start with. For little projects like that I like the CCC, (Cheap, Cheerful Chinese), brand of socket.
The cheap tools like sockets and wrenches tend to be softer and easier to do naughty things to. For example the socket I used for my mill power feed was easily drilled and tapped with HSS tooling. But it can still be a crap-shoot sometimes.
dalee
That looks great to me Wawoodman!!
The trick is to use cheap sockets. The ones from Harbor Freight machine up nicely with only HSS tooling.