MetalworkingFun Forum

(10-24-2012, 10:38 PM)f350ca Wrote: [ -> ]This is the lathe. http://summitmt.com/wp-content/uploads/2...pdf?027482

Will try and get a photo tomorrow if I can get it clean enough to be presentable. Will get a picture of the parts breakdown as well.

That's a serious lathe you've got there Greg.

Ed

What the Heck does the 3" refer to in "16-3" Lathes"? There doesn't seem to be anything 3" in that puppy.

My guess is it refers to the spindle through hole

What its only my hobby shop lathe. The 3 is the spindle bore, nice for making smallish drive shafts. I've filled it in both directions, a brake drum from a D5 Cat just fits over the ways and have repaired augers that were the full length. Was afraid to remove the gap so had to turn shieves on the mill. But it will do the small stuff too.

Greg,
Very nice indeed

DaveH

Hey! I learned something again today!

Petertha
Not sure how much help these will be but here goes. Please no comments on the filthy lathe, I did wipe it off before the photos.
This is all you see behind the carrage.



You adjust the taper here.



This clamps the slide to the bed thus actuating the taper.



The manual shows the carrage without the taper attachment.






And what the manual shows for the attachment.

It's almost totally confusing to me except for the cleanliness thing. That looks familiar.

hi a nice lathe indeed my lathe is a emco compact 8 and I'm always looking out for parts for it not that it needs anything but as a lot of lathes from the far est are copes of mine and i bet the spears for those lathes are much cheaper than original ones for mine for example me switch went on mine they wonted £68 for it i got one off the net for £5.99 and £2.50 post

(10-25-2012, 06:26 PM)f350ca Wrote: [ -> ]The manual shows the carrage without the taper attachment.

Thanks f350. I stared at your manual schematic for quite some time wondering how it could work before back-tracking & picking up on your comment. I understand the setting of the angle business on the taper attachment, but they really don't go on to say that anything different has to be done to temporarily disengage the leadscrew from the nut. No 'pull handle', 'drop leaver', 'remove pin'. Is this similarly ommitted from the manual? You say you just set the angle, nothing else & away it goes?

I'm not a pro mechanic, but I just cant visualize a dual, simultaneous arrangement where the cross slide table nut is engaged against the leadscrew thread, but then then the taper connection can 'push' against threaded engagement this along an angle?

One upon a time I recall seeing a book or video where the guy pulled a handle or knob prior to taper turning somewhere near the leadscrew handle. I got the impression it disengaged a clutch or something similar that de-coupled the leadscrew?

Hmm.. a mystery to me still. Now I really want to undersand how lathes accomodate this capability so I can figure out if something can be done on mine short of cross slide knock-down. I was thinking if the nut was round shaped, but flat on one side, teh flat would allow the cross slide table to pass overhead without engaging the 'step' in the cylindrical fitting. I will ahve to headscratch more. Thanks for teh info thus far.