MetalworkingFun Forum

(11-09-2012, 05:00 PM)Bill Gruby Wrote: [ -> ]You can say that again Ed. The threas should read like this. 1.125-40X.187.

"Billy G"

now thats one short run of threads

I need to do 14 cylinders plus a spare and 14 heads plus a spare. It will still take some time to complete.

"Billy G"

OK, Ok, I think I got it now. It's sorta like "enga.. crash, stall, shut down, disengage , Ooops too late."
I'm slow, but I do catch on (sometimes).
Great work ( as usuall) Bill.
Steve

Billy.
Nice work

DaveH

Why not turn the threading tool upside down and thread in reverse away from the shoulder?

Good idea Mayhem but there is only .020 relief between the top fin and the threads. That is not enough clearance to get the tool in place.

"Billy G"

Hi,

Nice job with the hand wheel. One of the first items I made for my lathe was a spindle hand crank. I don't use it often, but when you got those pesky short threading jobs like you have, it's the tool to have. Makes it so much faster and easier.

dalee

Bill we're gonna need some pictures of the process.

(11-10-2012, 09:58 PM)Bill Gruby Wrote: [ -> ]Good idea Mayhem but there is only .020 relief between the top fin and the threads. That is not enough clearance to get the tool in place.

"Billy G"

I don't want to be negative Bill, just curious. If you can single point the thread up to the fin how come you can't grind a tool that would allow you to "upside down thread" away from the Fin/shoulder or whatever.

There is a .020 relief between the top fin and the last thread. Doing it by hand right handed produces less chance of damaging that top fin. It is less that .020 thick. One ding and it's all over.
Yes, to answer the question it could probably be done but I don't want to take that chance. It take about 5 hours to get on cylinder to the threading stage.

"Billy G"