MetalworkingFun Forum
Tramming Post Style Mill/Drill - Printable Version

+- MetalworkingFun Forum (http://www.metalworkingfun.com)
+-- Forum: Machinery (http://www.metalworkingfun.com/forum-10.html)
+--- Forum: Milling Machines (http://www.metalworkingfun.com/forum-12.html)
+--- Thread: Tramming Post Style Mill/Drill (/thread-3743.html)

Pages: 1 2


RE: Tramming Post Style Mill/Drill - Cross Slide - 11-05-2017

I managed to get the Vise indicated. 
Took about 4 hours to accomplish. But since this was my first time attempting to indicate a vise, I'm happy with the out come.
Once I figured out a few things I was doing wrong by doing them over and over, it started to become clear as to what was happening or what I was doing wrong.
At first I was using a test indicator. I'm not sure exactly how accurate it is. I haven't done any testing on a known surface. The mount I was using with the test indicator is a clamp that went around the quill. It looks like it's a nice mount and easy to set up. But I found that when I tapped the vise to move it, the quill would turn ever so slightly from the vibration I guess. Which then would throw the reading out on the indicator.
Once I figured out that was happening I switched from the test indicator to a dual gauge mounted to a magnetic base. With the magnetic base the quill could not turn due to the magnet contacting two metal surfaces at once. 
I then found that I was turning the hand wheel to fast causing the needle to jump rapidly. Once I figured that out and turned the hand wheel nice and slow it all came together.
When I had the vise bolted down solid I had it at no more then 0.001 side to side. 
I don't think I would be able to get it any closer then that. So I'm very happy with the out come!!

Thanks for all your guys help. 
Trevor


RE: Tramming Post Style Mill/Drill - f350ca - 11-05-2017

I just got one of those mounts that clamp to the quill Trevor. A cheap one from Busy Bee, can't imagine how I got along with out it. Unless your quill turns remarkably easy that mount should work for you.


RE: Tramming Post Style Mill/Drill - Cross Slide - 11-05-2017

(11-05-2017, 08:01 PM)f350ca Wrote: I just got one of those mounts that clamp to the quill Trevor. A cheap one from Busy Bee, can't imagine how I got along with out it. Unless your quill turns remarkably easy that mount should work for you.

We have the exact same mount. Mine is from Busy Bee as well. The quill doesn't turn real easy. I noticed that the knob on the mount would shift ever so slightly. It wasnt turning like a 1/8 turn or anything. But the amount it was moving was messing with the reading.


RE: Tramming Post Style Mill/Drill - Dr Stan - 11-07-2017

Have you trammed the mill?  If not what ever feature you machine on a part will be out of square with the bottom.  Even something simple like drilling holes requires the head to be trammed (sq with the table).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfANyiS8Hs4

He shows how to do so on a mill with a ram.  Round arm mills like your BP and my Fray are more difficult, but the overall procedure is essentially the same.


RE: Tramming Post Style Mill/Drill - f350ca - 11-07-2017

I now see the problems you were having Trevor. Tried to indicate part vertical in the vice last night and was getting erratic readings. Certain geometries of the mount show the slight clearance between the spindle spline and the pulley. Will have to keep watching that one. Thanks


RE: Tramming Post Style Mill/Drill - kwoodhands - 01-13-2018

(11-04-2017, 10:09 PM)Cross Slide Wrote: I have a Post Style milling machine. I got the unit set up a few weeks ago, but haven't used it yet. Today I decided to install my milling vise. I'm finding it very hard to get the fixed jaw on the vise set true to the quill. I keep getting different readings across the 5.25" vise jaw.
Is there a easy way to tram a Post Style Mill?

You want your vice to be parallel with the slots. Here is a very fast and easy way to do this.
Get a piece if steel about 8" longer than your vice  and about 6" wide and 1/4" or thicker . The steel must be flat as possible for accuracy. Now with the vice on the table ,install the steel centered in the vice. You will cut a notch in the steel so it can sit in the table slots. When done it will look like an upside down U shape or a C on its side.
Deburr the edges you cut  and install it in the vice. You will have to pack out the steel with paralells ,123 blocks or whatever. If I recall I use one 123 block and four 1/8" thick parallels ,two 1/32" parallels on my vice  for packing.
The idea is to tighten the steel against the packing and the pull the vice with the steel in the slots toward you until both sides of the steel contact the edge of the slots. Now tighten the vice hold down nuts.The vice is now extremely close to alignment.
When I first used this method yeas ago I intended it to be a quick and dirty alignment that got me close. Then I would use an indicator to get it right. I have found that this method is close enough that I do not bother with the indicator.
Once you get the hang of it you can install your vice in less than 5 minutes , probably more like 3 minutes.
I showed this method to a friend, he made his notched piece of MDO (medium density overlay) because he had no steel on hand of the proper size. He said it worked well enough for him that he still uses it. He does use an indicator when accuracy is needed.
Don't be concerned with the round column on your mill. You do not have to tram this mill. Just align the vice to the slots. When moving the head up or down the spindle center will be off, just move the X and Y axis back to center on your part. I am assuming you are not familiar with milling? X is the long way and Y is the short way. Z is the head up and down . If you have any problems e-mail me. 
I do not claim to be an expert but have solved many of the problems new hobby machinists run into on their mills.
When you make as many mistakes as I have in the past you got to learn something to correct them

mike