Bench grinder setups
#1
With the help of a friend, I have finally completed *Howard* Hall’s Delux Grinding rest. I have a 4” aluminum oxide cup wheel and a diamond cup wheel for HSS, and would like to get Silicon Carbide wheels for carbide bits, though I don’t have many carbide tools. I currently have a nice Black and Decker bench grinder with the usual stock coarse and fine wheels on it. I have dressed the wheels, but never changed them.
My question is, is it a real hassle to change from one type of wheel to another? Do I have to true the wheels each time they’re installed? Or is it worth the investment to get another decent grinder or two and permanently set them up as carbide and HHS grinders? Are 1/2" wheels adequate, or do I need 3/4"?
Chuck

Edit *Harold* Hall
DaveH
Micromark 7x14 Lathe, X2 Mill , old Green 4x6 bandsaw
The difficult takes me a while, the impossible takes a little longer.
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#2
1/2" wheels on a standard grinder are far too narrow for me, I went for 1" wide.
I would have thought a diamond cup wheel would suffice for sharpening most stuff including carbide wouldn't it?
Arbalest, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Sep 2012.
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#3
I use aluminum oxide for HSS and reserve the diamond wheel for carbide. I've got a brand new silicon carbide wheel sitting on the shelf. It was used one time and that was enough for me. A diamond wheel works much, much better on carbide. If you have the funds and the space for them, having multiple grinders set up makes things go a lot quicker but it's not a necessity. I use a belt sander for most of my roughing.
Willie
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#4
Pretty much what Willie said, adding that you'll ruin the diamond wheel cutting HSS, they're meant for carbide. Any stone has to be trued every time you mount it, (after a ring test), with the exception of the metal backed diamond wheels,
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#5
I meant the diamond was for the carbide. will it handle roughing out? For example, I want to grind a round carbide tool for use in a tangential tool I'm making. It has a 30° jig I use for the square HSS bits also.
Chuck
Micromark 7x14 Lathe, X2 Mill , old Green 4x6 bandsaw
The difficult takes me a while, the impossible takes a little longer.
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#6
(06-12-2014, 01:47 PM)f350ca Wrote: ....Any stone has to be trued every time you mount it, (after a ring test),

Thanks for mentioning that Greg. It's probably the one step that gets overlooked all too often. That and standing off to the side of a grinder and letting it run for a minute or so after starting it, before getting in front of the wheels.
Willie
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#7
(06-12-2014, 03:06 PM)chucketn Wrote: I meant the diamond was for the carbide. will it handle roughing out? ......
Chuck

Yes, diamond wheels cut extremely fast. So take it slow and don't let things overheat.
Willie
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#8
Can you guys post pictures of the diamond wheels you're talking about? I want to get one for carbide but I'm not sure which one to get. 17428

Ed
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#9
I'm just using a straight cup type Ed. Same shape and size of the original green painted concrete wheels that came on my HF grinder. Threw those in the trash and replaced them with the aluminum oxide and diamond wheels.

http://www.metalworkingfun.com/showthread.php?tid=267

I think you can get diamond wheels in just about any of the usual types though. 17428

[Image: 5-7.jpg]
Willie
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#10
Been planning on getting a cup wheel from here when my workshop is set up again.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/...ing-Wheels
Arbalest, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Sep 2012.
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