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Location: Missouri, USA
The following 1 user Likes Highpower's post:
DaveH (03-07-2015)
Fine cast iron dust/crumbs + liquid = an abrasive lapping paste that I don't want running through my coolant pump. Then after it dries on the splash pan it turns into a solid mound of rust that has to be chiseled off like concrete. Cutting it dry and using a shop vac saves me a lot of grief on clean-up.
I have screens and magnets on the sump to catch ferrous 'chips' but they don't work well with a slurry of cast iron 'powder' and coolant.
Willie
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The following 2 users Like vtsteam's post:
DaveH (03-07-2015), Highpower (03-12-2015)
03-07-2015, 12:45 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-07-2015, 12:58 PM by vtsteam.)
I use kerosene for aluminum tapping, turning, milling (talking HSS, not inserts) per old timey recommendations. I do use WD-40 sometimes, if handy, and my kero can out of reach or buried somewhere. But basically they do the same thing to lubrcate and prevent chip welding, etc., one at about a tenth the cost of the other.
ps. kero also is the weapon of choice around here for rust breaking, and dissolving, including freeing stuck tractor engine pistons.
pps. besides the fact that cast iron may be a problem with coolant systems, the plus side of why it's cut dry is that it contains free graphite, a lubricant, and it doesn't gall like chewey metals.
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Seems this 25mm thick steel is jinked. The machine used to do the small jobs broke
now it won't be ready until next week.
DaveH