THANKS guys thanks Vinny
been busy up till 3 am last 2 days .... Im sorry didn't buy the Logan did have a look tho . in the 2 min I looked was impressed with head and gear box . Very simple, rigid good design in my book... never looked at logans ..I like em ,,, ... Hmm wasn't is heavy as the 10 SB tho ... Good price and all I had to do was put together and check However had my eye on SB ill share latter .. for now id say sorry Bloke u seem like a ford guy would bought the str6 F100 . Im a Chevy guy .. I Got the Chevy step side Str-6 250Ci with the wooden bed I
Always wanted . Dint have time to fart around with Carbs and clutches that day ya know .
Hey see the gear box on the SB Heavy ? LAST night put a few hours in her oilen her/ cleaning up dialing in.. I must say the only thing that sweaks is the Tightness of Main drive belt .LOlllllllllll. This kitten purs even with the gears and lead screw all reved up. No Foolin!!!! My Buddies Tough yet runs like a doll ... "tits" man ... the only part that I see I may need to replace NEW is a new brass cross feed lead screw nut .. other than that cant find any thing to replace . and the only thing I did not look at examine is engagement mech the lever is a cam it seems like its light.. I dunno if that can be adjusted and haven't dug further anyone know how she engages and what to look for adjust ? again she goes in SMOOTHE but feels like she can be adjusted or something. Been long time sinse I fixed adjusted ripped apart one so forgot how she engages anyone ?
Can I say machine is sweet . Im gona smoothe out the travels cross feed/ compound / tail stock... and be sure ill have a nice ride no? I can do that by hand No?
It looks like there's a lever where the star wheel usually goes. Some sort of conversion? I'd like to have that on my SB too, don't care for the star much. Oily hands and all.
(07-22-2015, 09:56 PM)Sunset Machine Wrote: It looks like there's a lever where the star wheel usually goes. Some sort of conversion? I'd like to have that on my SB too, don't care for the star much. Oily hands and all.
that would be on the older models ... I guessing but I belive different type of engagedment too . We have an ole 13" south bend at work with the star knob a bit scary when it doesn't disengage .. I believe that's why it was improved to the lever . Not sure exactly what years they changed it but my guess would be late 50's early 6o's.
looks like a fine machine to me an it cuts chips , price was right tooo... So Hows she treating you?
Btw you do have to get in the gear box and change back for fine feed change back for threading no?
and have ya found a happy med where ya leave it ?
07-24-2015, 09:22 AM (This post was last modified: 07-24-2015, 09:34 AM by Sunset Machine.)
It's called a "quick change" gearbox for a reason. Badda bum, it's done. Not like the 9" you were looking at, the one with changegears.
I had to replace the chuck, halfnut, fix a leg, fix two back gears, repair the compound, snug up the spindle and align it. The lathe was in the dumpster for a reason but it all came out pretty good. It has a more solid feel than my Logan on heavy cuts, but the Logan goes heavier before the belt slips. Only real complaint is that it's too short for me, the Logan is at a more comfortable height.
(07-24-2015, 09:22 AM)Sunset Machine Wrote: Only real complaint is that it's too short for me, the Logan is at a more comfortable height.
I know what you mean, I hate bending over to work on the lathe. It wouldn't be very long before I'd get it jacked up on something to save my back.
My back hurts just watching John (doubleboost) at his lathe.
(07-25-2015, 08:27 AM)PixMan Wrote: That's a truly professional fix to the compound. How did you do it? I don't see the usual bolted-on bars of steel.
Well, thank you. I've used the same method to repair broken handles too.
They are indeed bolted on plates. Look real close at the pic and you'll see 4 circles on the top face, one in each corner. Each one is similar to a bolt, with a shoulder that bridges both the compound and the new plate like a locating pin. The "head" is a really tight fit, like an inlay. Cut long, tightened with pliers and then hacksawed off flush, finished with a flycutter.