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hi well the mane parts of the saw has bin panted and the gide wheels have bin cleaned and re greased i used spray on grease designed for bike change i had to pull the motor dawn as one of the Bering's was feeling ruff i replaced both of them and and while the motor was in bits i put two new terminals on it with sleeves the next bit is a bit of haw too before re-panted the motor i removed the label as this label is made out of aluminum foil. get a utility knife blade and just wame up the back of the plate that the label is on then carefully slide the knife blade under the label it will lift easily once you have a nuff to get hold of gently pull on the label and it will peel off once off be very carefully on the next bit the only thing that i have cum a cross that will remove the glue left on the back of a label is petrol as this dus not tack the print on the label. put sum in a container with a good fitting lid and let the label soak after a short time remove the label and the glue will be able to be wiped off then get sum double sided tape and put this on the back of the label then when the re-pant is dun you just reattach the label i remounted the saw back on to its base originally its riveted on but i have used 4 m4 counter sunk screws to put it back on with will post sum pics tonight
krv3000, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Feb 2012.
Bob,
That bandsaw is almost identical to my B&Decker one, which must be around 25 years old now.
I see yours already has the ball raced blade guides on it, I had to design and make my own. If they are correctly adjusted, the machine can take up to 1/2" wide blades, they run a lot truer than the normal 1/4" blades that you can buy. Normal 1/2" carbon blades, I used to get from Axminster, for well less than 10 pounds each.
As far as I know, yours (and mine) take the same length of blade, which is 59.5" long. If you are just going to use it for non ferrous, then the 24TPI carbon blades do last fairly well, but as soon as it comes into contact with anything ferrous, say goodbye to your blade.
I have only recently started to cut ferrous on mine, so I had some 1/2" wide bi metal HSS blades made, as they are not a standard length, and they cut absolutely great.
Whether using carbon or bi metal, you must slow the blade speed down as much as you can (use the turny horizontal handle bit on the back of the bandsaw).
John
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Good to see guys refurbing older equipment, but that's a bummer about breaking your'e belt!!
Hopefully you will be able to locate one.
sasquatch, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Jul 2012.
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07-11-2012, 09:38 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-11-2012, 09:40 AM by krv3000.)
thanks ed i have just roded a belt of solenttools thancs for the hellp i still need pics of the set up of the blade gides
krv3000, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Feb 2012.
Here is a PDF File I came across of the manual for that saw. I have no clue who posted it but thanx to whomever it was.
"Billy G"
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxtEkh7p...edit?pli=1
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hi thank you so much bill this will help identify the parts that is missing i don't think their will be much difference between the BK3 and mine witch is the BBS2 pleas do not tack this the wrong way but i wood prefer the right Manuel for this band saw thank you so much for your help and to all that has helped so far
krv3000, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Feb 2012.
That manual is a tough one to fins. All kinds od info though. I'll keep looking, might get lucky.
"Billy G"