New part for the Cinci lead screw support
#21
(08-16-2013, 08:09 AM)dallen Wrote: Ed

hate to tell you this but I don't like football,...

DA

Neither do I. Bleh

Ed
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#22
boxes ain't made like they used to be!
What all are you trying to put in there?
oldgoaly, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jun 2013.
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#23
(08-16-2013, 05:49 PM)oldgoaly Wrote: boxes ain't made like they used to be!
What all are you trying to put in there?

big old 3 amp variac, duplex plug, pid temp controller and a plug for the thermalcouple. and I'll probably find some other things like a cord to plug it in with. Oh yea and I'll need a couple of switches I know for something like to kill the power in the box instead of unpluging it all the time.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

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#24
ahhh speed control for the blower! I have a number of electrical enclosure I've dragged along home over the years, there was a local manufacturer. Wish you were closer you could pick a couple up. all but the big one I'm using it to de-rust car parts!
   
oldgoaly, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jun 2013.
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#25
now I would say that is a pretty good sized J-box if your derusting car parts in it.

well I been working on this damn thing most of the evening, but I think I got it where it won't take all weekend to watch it.



dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

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#26
Thanks for posting that Dave. Just out of interest, what is commercial grain modifier? At first I thought it may be something that goes into livestock food but I'm guessing the grain refers to the structure of the aluminium.

Also, do you have any pics or info on the burner you are using. It looked like it had a couple of ports on the back. I know you use gas but was wondering if you also use waste oil?
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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#27
the grain modifier that I put in the pot besides the copper was a titanium boron mix that is used to control the grain size in the aluminum during cooling. the copper if you get above 15 percent will turn it into a bearing material and which can become so hard that you can't machine it. the commercial grain modifiers come in many different types and delivery packages (I have some that is in table form some in what looks like aluminum wire with gauge marks on the side so you can dose the pot with the right amount.

My burner, well its my burner I throwed it together out if a vacuum cleaner blower from a big shop vac, (you need something that moves lots of air, because its not all oxygen) and a syphon nozzle, and yes it burns oils as well as gas, most of the time if I am doing just aluminum I just use gas, doing big brass/bronze pours I will use both, with Cast Iron any size pour get both.

I also have a standard Naturally Aspirated 1" burner, an another tube that fits the Vac Motor which just does gas, no sense in limiting myself guess thats why I have three furnaces.

It works for me, if it will work for you I don't know, the one thing that I looked at when trying to go oil was what can I buy so I don't have to re-engineer the whole world of combustion to make it work. just my thoughts, some people get lucky and hit on a combination of fittings and such that work and work great and I've seen and watched people go thru trials and tribulations to no end trying to make a burner becasue they think they can re-make the wheel.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

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#28
got the pattern basically made just need to do all the fillets and sanding and paint on it tomorrow an hopefully on monday I can pour it again, I did goof on the part of the pattern that the leadscrew goes thru and got it a little on the thick side but thats ok I put it together so that the extra is on the outside be easy to face it off.

sorry no photos today.

DA
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

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#29
Thanks for that very informative
You must be using oil bonded sand
It seems much "stronger " than my "green" sand
Jihn
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#30
glad you liked it, I'm not very good at taking or editing videos and this one started out pretty long.

yes I use oil bonded sand, here in the summer time you have one hell of a time trying to keep the moisture content correct, so I built a muller which made a world of difference in the way the greensand was mixed and the moisture distributed through the sand, but I switched to oil bonded sand which allows me to make a mold one or two days before I pour if I want to. And except for the addition of a little petrobond powder, oil, or methanol at times the stuffs ready at the flip of a switch. And in cold weather when the sand can be a bear to work with, I just stick some steel bars in the furnace and heat them up them stick them in the sand.

I don't think the oil bonded sand is any stronger then greensand, your using a natural sand, right?, if you are and you want to toughen it up some, add some bentonite to it to boost the clay content. There are other things you can add like wheat flour (which I wouldn't, makes a helluva mess, causes you sand to mold and stinks when the hot metal hits it), and wood flour/sawdust, sea coal/powdered coal and a host of other things. I keep the sand you see in the video pretty simple some silica sand, petrobond powder, and used motor oil.

What amazes people that come over is how little oil you have to add to bring the sand back to normal strength, that muller full of sand when needed will only get about a 1/4 cup of oil to rejuvenate the sand.
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