Todays Project - What did you do today?
Just tried them again Greg, it just has a box with a red "X" then beside it-image:IMG-0415.jpg

So, still won't open. Is that the same Steve?
sasquatch, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Jul 2012.
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(01-03-2013, 10:38 PM)sasquatch Wrote: Dang it!! I cannot open the red X's AGAIN!!

Happened once before then started working. (Must be the LAST mess up of my weird day!!) Lol

The fact that your images aren't opening is a browser issue. Check the options in your browser and make sure the "Load Images Automatically" box is checked. That's the way it's worded in Firefox anyway, there should be something similar in Explorer.

Tom
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If you Right-click on the X, you will get a menu appear, from which you can select "show image". Also, try holding the shift key, whilst clicking the refresh button. This will refresh the page from the server and not a cached page.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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C'mon Greg, we all know everything comes up for you. Big Grin Smiley-dancenanaRotfl
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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(01-04-2013, 06:04 PM)sasquatch Wrote: Is that the same Steve?

Nope, I'm never the sane Steve, Oh, did you say same?
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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(01-04-2013, 07:42 PM)stevec Wrote:
(01-04-2013, 06:04 PM)sasquatch Wrote: Is that the same Steve?

Nope, I'm never the sane Steve, Oh, did you say same?

Rotfl
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(01-03-2013, 10:07 PM)f350ca Wrote: [Image: IMG_0415.jpg]

While many folks will look at these photos and think "New fangled engineering" why bother?

this is a very similar system to how many old english car axle flanges are held together, one that I can quote for sure is the MGB with the addition of a spline for security against the relatively high torque loadings on a drive axle flange, and the use of split tapered bushes on power transmission parts is almost the starting point nowadays coming into widespread use with the "Taper-lok" many years ago not to mention tapered mounting and dismounting sleeves for bearings. but the system needs special machining of the bore of the pulleys or couplings.

"New" technology (not much is really new, but to my knowledge it hasn't been in widespread use for very long) is the "Tollok" mounting and locking system, I suppose there are other brands about but I have used these, they use a parallel shaft and bore in the pulley, coupling or bearing and the Tollok part has it's own internal and external tapers that when tightened cause the bush's parallel bore to shrink while the parallel OD expands, they hold a exceptional amount of torque with no need for keys, furthermore they hold exceptional runout tolerances as well, often so good that it would be hard to get an old school Taper-lok to come in as well.
javascript:openpopup_27b5('http://www.techdrives.co.uk/Multimedia/Mechanical%20locking%20bushes/tollok-locking-assemblies.pdf')
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Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
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Thats a neat locking system Rick
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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Thanks for the link Rick. Those concepts have definitely been stored in my data banks for future applications.

Tom
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Never a problem,
We used them for attaching Chassis Dyno Rollers to their shafts, An added advantage is the ability to "fiddle" with the bore and shaft tolerances to enable the locking ring to lock to one part more strongly than the other, with the dyno rollers we used locking rings at each end of the roller one end locked as per the specifications the other setup in such a way as to lock to the shaft and be able to slip within the bore of the roller, not loose by any stretch, but able to move under about two to five tons of force in a press, this only makes sense when you realise that dyno roller tubes can exceed 120 degrees C in heavy use and when over a length of 8 feet or 2400mm this means a lot of displacement if you lock both ends rigid it can cause all manner of problems from out of balance rollers to fatigued shafts or roller hubs that end up breaking in use.

Allowing movement between the ring and the roller means that the shaft won't be eroded by wear if the movement gets out of hand, and simply tightening the locking ring will take up any wear, also the ring can be easily replaced without needing to press it out from inside the roller bore which would be difficult at best.

To reduce the risk of someone over tightening the movable locking ring we used to stamp the tightening torque onto the ring for future reference, you never know where your custom made machinery might end up, but rest assured if something goes wrong with it they'll find you somehow.

I designed and built an engine dyno system in 2007-8 and when the company closed down in 2009 it was sold on an online Auction and was exported to Poland, where a few months later that company ceased trading, it passed through a number of hands until in 2011 it was sold once again back into the UK, through another online Auction, the final owner managed to track down my mobile phone number to ask some basic questions about setting it up, some proposed modifications and how to use certain functions, while on this occasion it was nice to be tracked down as I ended up consulting to the new owner on a number of occasions which made me a little cash, If something had failed and hurt someone on the other hand I'm sure it wouldn't have been so good to have been contacted by their legal folk. Just shows how careful you need to be when building something that could be dangerous if used wrongly or especially if it could fail catastrophically. so for the price of a few minutes stamping the correct tightening torque directly to the couplings, hubs and anywhere else that information could prevent a failure is good insurance, it doesn't hurt to make sure your device complies with the local safety standards as well.

Best Regards
Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
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