01-04-2015, 11:23 AM
Soft jaws would probably be better, but I don't like removing the jaws. This table is quick - you have but one bolt to deal with and no need to dial anything in. The drawback is the size - anything smaller than the chuck table won't work. It's also hard on the jaws.
Parallel depth tooth form. The teeth are radial, they fan out in a vee shape. Store bought gears have tapered teeth for full contact. Twice as strong but they need to be planed on a gear shaper. These can be milled.
To tell them apart at a glance: the tops of the teeth are straight for tapered teeth. That's not a typo- parallel teeth have wedge shaped tops. It's counter-intuitive. To cut tapered teeth on a mill requires filing & fitting. Parallel teeth are ready to go without filing. I'm sensing a repair in the wind and wanted to see how much trouble I can get in.
As to the lathe work, I have two of them. One is left with the jaws set for OD work. I just never bought a QC toolpost for it, but I do have a couple holders and in a pinch I borrow the QC from the other machine (different center heights). But with just two operations going it wasn't worth the effort.
Parallel depth tooth form. The teeth are radial, they fan out in a vee shape. Store bought gears have tapered teeth for full contact. Twice as strong but they need to be planed on a gear shaper. These can be milled.
To tell them apart at a glance: the tops of the teeth are straight for tapered teeth. That's not a typo- parallel teeth have wedge shaped tops. It's counter-intuitive. To cut tapered teeth on a mill requires filing & fitting. Parallel teeth are ready to go without filing. I'm sensing a repair in the wind and wanted to see how much trouble I can get in.
As to the lathe work, I have two of them. One is left with the jaws set for OD work. I just never bought a QC toolpost for it, but I do have a couple holders and in a pinch I borrow the QC from the other machine (different center heights). But with just two operations going it wasn't worth the effort.