Given the porosity of the surface you'll probably find lots more in the casting. You stated you could not see in the crucible during the melt. Take a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0HTH2nq2nM to give yourself some ideas. There needs to be a hole in the center of the lid to allow hot gasses to escape which can be mostly covered by a fire brick during the melt. This way you can pull the brick to the side and view the crucible and the melt. If necessary you can simply add more scrap via the vent.
One necessary point is that you place any & all additional scrap pieces on top of the lid so any moisture can be removed. The coefficient of water to steam is something along the lines of 1600:1. Any water accidentally introduced to the inside of the melt will in all likely hood explosively empty the crucible. Google foundry explosions to see the results of a liquid introduced into a melt.
Temp of the pour is also critical. I have poured aluminum between 1275 & 1300 degrees F with good success.
You certainly do not want to pour on a bare concrete floor as it too contains water. Use an expendable 4 X 8 sheet of plywood or OSB on which to pour.
Are you using a water or oil based casting sand? My preference is water based as it is easier to keep a satisfactory level of moisture in the sand. If you're using water based a quick & dirty test is to squeeze a hand full of sand, open you hand to see if the sand retains its shape. If it falls apart its too dry. If it results in water in your hand its way too wet.
Another process is to mull the sand. There are mullers on the market, but a cheap concrete/mortar mixer works well. Remove the blades and install a piece of angle iron at an angle to the axis of rotation.
An even cheaper way to mull the sand is to spread out a tarp on the floor and use a garden rake. Make sure you use the tarp to keep trash out of the sand.
BTW, mulling is used to break up any clumps and evenly disperse dry sand through out your supply.
I was lucky and purchased the USN Foundryman 3 & 2 reprinted by Lindsey Technical Books. They have closed due to retirement but you may find one on the used book market.
I've probably missed one or more important points which others will remember.
Make an ingot mold out of a piece of 3X3 angle iron or 3 or 4 inch channel iron. Cap the ends so you have something in which to pour the leftover melt.
BTW, for a first pour its not that bad. Keep it up and learn casting.
One necessary point is that you place any & all additional scrap pieces on top of the lid so any moisture can be removed. The coefficient of water to steam is something along the lines of 1600:1. Any water accidentally introduced to the inside of the melt will in all likely hood explosively empty the crucible. Google foundry explosions to see the results of a liquid introduced into a melt.
Temp of the pour is also critical. I have poured aluminum between 1275 & 1300 degrees F with good success.
You certainly do not want to pour on a bare concrete floor as it too contains water. Use an expendable 4 X 8 sheet of plywood or OSB on which to pour.
Are you using a water or oil based casting sand? My preference is water based as it is easier to keep a satisfactory level of moisture in the sand. If you're using water based a quick & dirty test is to squeeze a hand full of sand, open you hand to see if the sand retains its shape. If it falls apart its too dry. If it results in water in your hand its way too wet.
Another process is to mull the sand. There are mullers on the market, but a cheap concrete/mortar mixer works well. Remove the blades and install a piece of angle iron at an angle to the axis of rotation.
An even cheaper way to mull the sand is to spread out a tarp on the floor and use a garden rake. Make sure you use the tarp to keep trash out of the sand.
BTW, mulling is used to break up any clumps and evenly disperse dry sand through out your supply.
I was lucky and purchased the USN Foundryman 3 & 2 reprinted by Lindsey Technical Books. They have closed due to retirement but you may find one on the used book market.
I've probably missed one or more important points which others will remember.
Make an ingot mold out of a piece of 3X3 angle iron or 3 or 4 inch channel iron. Cap the ends so you have something in which to pour the leftover melt.
BTW, for a first pour its not that bad. Keep it up and learn casting.