Powered drawbar?
#1
I noticed Tom has a air operated one on his mill, it's been almost 2 months since I've been able to reach the draw bar on my old BP. So I've been looking at various ones. Only one build had one with a remote (lower) controls. I'm not worried about speed of a change just easy access as my shoulders are worn out! To operate the brake for years I've used a pc of 3/4" pvc pipe. If you have one please tell me what you like or dislike about it, going to need to do something buy or make one. Thanks for your input!Smiley-eatdrink004

   
oldgoaly, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jun 2013.
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#2
I feel your pain oldgoaly. Literally. I have shoulder issues as well and the very same reason I added a power drawbar to my mill. The ones that use a set of remote buttons to control the the impact gun are very handy indeed. But they also add to the cost and complexity of the system.

I chose to go with a mechanical lever operated unit to cut down the cost, and reduce the chances of having leaks or failures with the remote hardware. Someone will probably say that they never fail, but at least I know it will never be a problem for me. If you want the controls very low on the machine go with the remote set-up.

My unit is actually designed for a Bridgeport and would bolt directly to your mill - but since I have a rinky-dink clone I had to adapt it to my machine. Still the best thing I have done to my mill, considering the shoulder issues.
Smiley-gen163

You won't need a riser on your machine like I did. Thumbsup

[Image: th_KurtPowerLock.jpg] [Image: th_PowerDrawbarHead.jpg] [Image: th_Brake_Housing.jpg] [Image: th_PowerDrawbarRiser.jpg]
Willie
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#3
I have a Kurt powered draw bar on my Index 860 and don't know what I'd do without it. There are only a couple of things that could be considered "drawbacks" with it. One, you need an air compressor hooked up to it and two, you've added another "system" that things could go wrong with. Air leaks, need to keep adding oil for it, bad "O" rings, etc. etc.

That being said, it is a dream to use - quick, simple, and I don't need a step ladder. Big Grin

[Image: WellsIndex016.JPG]

-Ron
11" South Bend lathe - Wells-Index 860C mill - 16" Queen City Shaper
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#4
Thanks guys for the input, I have a 5hp 80 gal tank, iron pipe lines that end about 5 feet from where it goes into the machine shop area. Why it hasn't been finished is my metal stock pile is there on the floor, haven't made a stock rack yet. Started on a threaded rod storage rack, using the di-arco turret punch my shoulders kept me awake a few days, if I don't sleep well I'm dragging the next day. I've held a replacement joint in my hands and got into a argument with the doc, she didn't know why there was ridges in the ball part, she could not see them I could and feel them! Either they needed a cnc programmer to make more touches or their Holridge radii cutter was a little loose causing it to vibrate. It has been recalled any way, my concern is how it is attached to the bone that is a major failure point! Seems like a never ending cycle of projects but I would not have it any other way. My boy is in college or he would be here to help a little if I can get him away from the video games.
oldgoaly, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jun 2013.
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#5
(10-06-2013, 08:18 PM)oldgoaly Wrote: My boy is in college or he would be here to help a little if I can get him away from the video games.

Consider yourself lucky. My daughter won't have any part of anything to do with my shop! Rotfl
Willie
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#6
I've been looking at just about everything on the internet, sure a lot of crap / phoney sites!
Just to verify you don't need to hold the brake? would I be crazy to re-purpose a older battery impact? one they are cheap, a simple DC power supply, couple of momentary switches down low where they are easy to reach, a little wire? what money a power supply will cost make up in savings on air fittings and valves. some raise / lower the impact wrench, how about a brake cable and shop made foot pedal?
oldgoaly, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jun 2013.
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#7
Correct. You don't have to use the brake with a power drawbar. You DO have to remember to "return your tray (err...quill) to it's full upright and locked position" before changing tools though. Other wise you get a swing and a miss... Big Grin

I've got a couple of battery powered impacts. While they are handy as all get out for some things, they still don't have the torque output of a pneumatic tool. What would worry me, is having an end mill get sucked out of the collect and ruining the work - and my whole day because it didn't get tightened enough.

I suppose you could use a larger 1/2" electric impact, but then I would be worried about just the opposite and over tightening the drawbar. Slaphead

Just my thoughts, because I've never tried it myself. Maybe someone else has some experience in that area? Chin
Willie
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#8
I'm not sure how much torque I've have been putting on them the last year or two, knock on wood nothing has come out so far! I'll get some info off of it.later.
oldgoaly, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jun 2013.
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#9
20 year old 9.6v Snapon 3/8" impacted, I've got 25$ in it.
   
parts breakdown
did some more searching found this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0VK3lQwL...tube_gdata
I will use a power supply as it has no battery. for the engaging / lowering a foot pedal and a cable low tech enough? and cheap!
Had the wife punching holes for the threaded rod stock holder, the turret punch was bad, so was the whitney. this growing old ain't for sissy's!


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oldgoaly, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jun 2013.
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#10
Sounds like a plan. Smile

Make sure to keep the batteries in your camera charged along the way.
Oh, and don't forget to wear your safety goggles! Big Grin
Willie
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