Tractor repair
#11
Smiley-signs107 Greg
Smiley-eatdrink004
DaveH
Reply
Thanks given by:
#12
Move some things around to get at the mill. (will be a welcome day when I get those counters out of the shop)

Using tapered pins to tighten up the worn splines on the steering arm.

[Image: IMG_0916.jpg]

Can't quite see it in the picture, used a v-block between the spindle and the 90 degree plate or what ever you call it. Made a spacer to hold the arm at the height I wanted and the clamps hold it firm and square.

[Image: IMG_0915.jpg]

Drilled down 1 1/2 inches then reamed for the pins. Have to cut about 3/4 off them to stop them bottoming out, my next size smaller tapered reamer would leave 1/2 inch of hole below the pin.
Going with 4 pins per spindle.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Reply
Thanks given by:
#13
(12-07-2013, 08:08 PM)f350ca Wrote: Made the bushings today. The chap Im doing it for had some 2 1/2 solid brass bar. First drilled with my largest bit 1 1/4. Had to reduce the clearance angles, it sure wanted to grab.

Ya didn't watch the video I made on grinding drills for use in plastics and brass. Smiley-nono All you need to do is eliminate of the positive rake on the drill and it won't pull in on you.

That's gonna be a happy tractor (and owner) when you are through.

Tom
[Image: TomsTechLogo-Profile.png]
Reply
Thanks given by:
#14
Yah I did watch it, just didn't implement what I learned till after it grabbed.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Reply
Thanks given by:
#15
Finished them up this morning. Was pleased with how my drilling followed the gap, was worried it would steer into the softer cast arm.

[Image: IMG_0917.jpg]

[Image: IMG_0918.jpg]
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Reply
Thanks given by:




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)