04-19-2015, 12:18 PM
(04-19-2015, 10:05 AM)Sunset Machine Wrote: I just lightly push mine squarely up against the side of the grinding wheel and clamp it down, making sure the wheel clears on all four sides of the chuck.
Had to regrind the chuck after a removal a while back. Kept burning. Didn't do that before, what is wrong??? Turns out that the wheel had worn to 6 inches. I was able to compensate by whippin' the table back and forth as fast as possible. Oh, my aching arm.
Wheel diameter makes a difference.
I don't understand what you mean by "push mine squarely up against the side of the grinding wheel...." Say what? Are you suggesting using no back rail at all and instead using the side of a grinding wheel as a reference surface?
I wouldn't if that's what you mean. Have you dressed the side of the wheel to be square? Is there no give to the wheel (I sometimes use 1/4" wheels and those bend w\easier than you would think.) I believe if that was a reliable way of setting work squarely on the chuck, makers of chucks wouldn't bother including the rail. I don't like steel touching my grinding wheels unless the wheel is spinning, but that's what works for me.
When the wheel burns the work it's loading up. Too low of a wheelspeed (cutting speed) from smaller diameter wheel can exacerbate the problem, but you did the right thing by just getting more aggressive on feed rate.