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(05-16-2015, 02:33 PM)dallen Wrote: if the ball turner won't reach the work because the cross slide won't travel far enough for the bit to reach the work.
Take a piece of flat bar long enough to fix it and drill two hole in one end so you can bolt it onto the cross slide where the compound attaches, the tap two holes in the other end to bolt the ball turner too.
DA
Exactly what I was suggesting as a fix, but better explained. I did add that one might have to remove a compensating amount of material off the thick base of the tool, equal to the thickness of the plate used.
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(05-16-2015, 02:16 PM)Vinny Wrote: You may have to use a longer piece of round to make your ball so it sticks out of the chuck farther.
Hello there VINNY
Sorry Pal, we not with U
Moving across the saddle, not parallel to the bedways is our problem. The present mounting in the existing Toolpost holes is where the problem's at - the Ball Turner just does not reach close enough to the chuck from that position. By extending a round bar further out the Chuck U are giving me a lateral movement of the workpiece, whereas we need to get closer to the centre point of the Chuck.
Hope we have explained ourselves correctly
aRM
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(05-16-2015, 02:33 PM)dallen Wrote: if the ball turner won't reach the work because the cross slide won't travel far enough for the bit to reach the work.
Take a piece of flat bar long enough to fix it and drill two holes in one end so you can bolt it onto the cross slide where the compound attaches, then tap two holes in the other end to bolt the ball turner too.
DA
Sir DALLEN
Ok, this is a bit easier
Just have to watch those holes and replicate them again
U don't like drilling into the Cross Slide ???
aRM
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(05-16-2015, 03:00 PM)PixMan Wrote: (05-16-2015, 02:33 PM)dallen Wrote: if the ball turner won't reach the work because the cross slide won't travel far enough for the bit to reach the work.
Take a piece of flat bar long enough to fix it and drill two hole in one end so you can bolt it onto the cross slide where the compound attaches, the tap two holes in the other end to bolt the ball turner too.
DA
Exactly what I was suggesting as a fix, but better explained. I did add that one might have to remove a compensating amount of material off the thick base of the tool, equal to the thickness of the plate used.
KEN
Ok, this makes things look possible, for us
Now to find the plate ( of right length ) and work the Zen out for the project ahead
Or simply Drill the bloody Cross slide and get the show going >>>>
At least we now have some practical options
Thanks to all U good Guys
Much appreciate the concern
aRM
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I have no issue with drilling the cross slide as long as you take it apart to drill it and make certain you're not drilling into any cross holes for lube, a weak area of a the casting or other circumstance which might result in a broken cross slide.
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(05-17-2015, 06:02 AM)PixMan Wrote: I have no issue with drilling the cross slide as long as you take it apart to drill it and make certain you're drilling into any cross holes for lube, a weak area of a the casting or other circumstance which might result in a broken cross slide.
Methinks there's no getting away from dismantling the Cross slide, which is indeed the better way to do things like U say
Will just have to remember the sequence and placement of the Bolts and Nuts
And if push comes to shove, we can always look forward to the most able and willing support from U Guys here
Will keep U posted on the progress
Take care
aRM
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The following 1 user Likes Mayhem's post:
EdK (05-17-2015)
aRM - just remember to take lots of pictures on your digital camera or phone. Instant exploded diagrams 
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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If you do indeed take it apart, you'll find out quickly when you flip it over and see if there's enough mass to bolt the base of the swivel directly or a need for an extended plate. Many cross slide tops are "beefed up" thickness around where the compound slide's T-slots are milled, but hollowed out beyond that as it's more a cover and connector/spacer for the dovetails than a support for additional mechanisms.
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(05-17-2015, 09:01 AM)PixMan Wrote: If you do indeed take it apart, you'll find out quickly when you flip it over and see if there's enough mass to bolt the base of the swivel directly or a need for an extended plate. Many cross slide tops are "beefed up" thickness around where the compound slide's T-slots are milled, but hollowed out beyond that as it's more a cover and connector/spacer for the dovetails than a support for additional mechanisms.
Thanks KEN
Will check things out thoroughly and keep U Guys posted
Only chance now to take her apart will be over the coming week end, LORD Willing
aRM
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(05-17-2015, 07:05 AM)Mayhem Wrote: aRM - just remember to take lots of pictures on your digital camera or phone. Instant exploded diagrams
Yup Mayhem
Will have to seeing that we are doing this for the first time
TIA
aRM
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