10 inch Lathes**** Oldies but goodies*** need your opinions ASAP
#21
By the looks of all those gears, it doesn't have a quick change gearbox which will get old in a hurry when you start threading. Change the gears to cut a 16 TPI thread, then change the gears for your slow feed, then change them for ... old in a hurry.
Logan 200, Index 40H Mill, Boyer-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder, HF 4x6 Bandsaw, a shear with no name, ...
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#22
The 9" does not appear to have a quick change gear box. You'd find out real fast just what a PITA constantly disassembling and assembling the gears will become.

As others have said trying to speed up a plain bearing machine is not a good idea as it will most likely end up with failed bearings and a damaged/seized spindle.

I fully agree than any of the used US made lathes are far superior to a new 10" Chinese lathe. Most consider the smaller Chinese lathes to be of poor quality at best. They usually need torn down and flushed to facilitate removal of the remaining casting sand and swarf from the machining process.

Some European lathes you may want to consider are Denford, Myford, and Emco Maier (note: Emco not Enco). Note the Myford line was purchased in a bankruptcy sale and I believe production was moved to India. I have no information as to the quality of the new machines. Also South Bend was purchased by Grizzly and production moved to mainland China and Taiwan. Most here know my opinion regarding Chinese machine tools.
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#23
(07-18-2015, 01:23 PM)Vinny Wrote: By the looks of all those gears, it doesn't have a quick change gearbox which will get old in a hurry when you start threading.  Change the gears to cut a 16 TPI thread, then change the gears for your slow feed, then change them for ...  old in a hurry.
Wow Vinny that's 2 in a row comments that are thoughtful and helpful ... yure on your game today. Thanks for the help to lend a hand w/ the hilo... but I still may use my rope hoist idea ...lol... I have that all fig out now how im gona support the beams when I lift up the 932 ...
hey I thought you were gona go back to the Logan again... just kidden . Btw I did do a lil of research and it seems they did have somewhat better bearings perhaps ahead of the early model SB's .. Ohh and I did look at that 10" Model # 4900 Clausing alltho the machine is lighter than heavy SB 10 by 300 # perhaps it may be a bit more rigid bc of year and having roller bearings and 12 spindle speeds up to 1700 Rpm too bad the one I found is completely stripped of accessories . Now what im learning that may have been the right choice .. However I still want something that has higher RPM range .

Vinny keep in mind I still want to keep the ole beer fridge. getting a 10" lathe not bigger. If ya have one thing to say as far as getting a 10 incher that will have the best of both worlds ya have any suggestions of what I should look for ?
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#24
Quick Update on the 9x42 it was sold by Original owner (long story but he told me it) You dont want me to retell entire story . But put it this way he was an ole timer machinist that was goin blind he that wanted it to go to right person spent 3 hours there explaining to him how to keeper oiled right...lol..... he didnt want to go when it was put in its new home . He even came back to make sure she was leveled properly . It has a replaced motor on it, has a 4 jaw chuck that never saw the machine in last 10 years as with its new owner . It does not have cross feed . It has original manual it is a 1958 model prob a 1/2 hp motor on it now and im waiting the serial #


so what type of head bearings does it have ? What size spindle opening is in this model?

Bottom line sounds like a gem but Should I move on to the Heavy 10” SB or not even bother with that either ?
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#25
If it helps any, my Logan's top spindle speed is only 1450 but I've never had the need to go that fast. I'm still of the mindset that a member of the 7x mailing list once said. "Disasters are always better in slow motion"
Logan 200, Index 40H Mill, Boyer-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder, HF 4x6 Bandsaw, a shear with no name, ...
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#26
that 9x24 is clean and def the right price too last 12 hrs done someore research love to pick it up to turn it over but not worth $200-$300 of explaining to right buyer ... I know if I baught it and broke her up for parts prob double my moneys . But again not worth the space ( limited without gettn rid of beer fridge) and time to sell all the parts could be 6 months or more...

now I dunno why but I like this machine can some tell me why I shouldn't buy it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PSRl0z1p0Lg
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#27
Do all lathes in this size range use the lead screw to power the carnage?
I've read that can be a problem, as the screw wears you loos your precision when threading.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#28
Some use the threads on the screw to move it, some use the keyway to drive a gear to move it. Older Logans used the threads, the newer ones used the keyway. I don't recall what the one Kenny posted a link to had on it.
Logan 200, Index 40H Mill, Boyer-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder, HF 4x6 Bandsaw, a shear with no name, ...
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#29
Just took another look. It has the newer carriage.
Logan 200, Index 40H Mill, Boyer-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder, HF 4x6 Bandsaw, a shear with no name, ...
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#30
I believe the Logan on ebay is the best choice, I have said before I own a Logan and have no complaints it’s a very capable precise machine for my home shop that’s paid for its self-ten fold financially and from the pleasure of running it.

He mentions a 5c collet drawbar closer which is shown but no mention of the collets but they are there, first picture bottom right. The 3 jaw chuck may have seen better days but who cares there is some value there but a 3 jaw chuck is not a necessity in a machine shop a 4 jaw is.

Other than this there is not much with it, but from my eyes is see a lathe you could purchase for $350.. here's how… put the lathe on a bench then sell the legs value $250, then you don’t need the motor base and that goofy stabilizer leg value $150, 3 jaw chuck toss..it value $100.

Now you have a good machine that’s been purchased below market price, all the time you own this machine you will always have an asset that will never depreciate in fact you're already in the black because what you have left is worth $600 market price.

I read all the time people struggling with nothing in there shop because they can't afford to purchase the tooling needed, but what you have to realize is the money you spend for tooling is always going to be inherently within the tool and at any time can be cashed in to retrieve the financial value whilst in its tenure  with you it's been used for what its intended for.

I have a well-stocked capable machine and fabrication shop of considerable high resale value collected over a period of 15 years and not one nickel do I have in it.
 
Hope this helps….  Anthony.
ieezitin, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jan 2013.
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