03-11-2016, 07:48 PM
(03-11-2016, 02:53 PM)Old Minger Wrote: Rather than second quess the drawing just stick a voltmeter across the PCB where the old lamp originates from. When energized If you get line volts then replace with a suitable lamp or if you get DC then use a suitable DC indicator.
In my mind the prudent thing to do is to check the schematic first if available, to see if there is anything else that might be further down in the circuit that would be affected negatively, if any other component is changed. That is why quality VOM's have at least a 10K internal impedance. I've replaced a number of various vehicle ECU's in my time due to some kid installing his new 300 watt sound system in his car, and tapping into the first power wire he finds under the dashboard. The parents are never happy to find out the manufacturer won't warranty a $2000 computer on a new car because their kid blew it up trying to do his own install without knowing what he was doing.
But yes, I had planned to check the voltage anyway to see what it was, which turns out to be 58.6 VAC by the way. I'll check the voltage rating on the new switch / light when it arrives, but I'm feeling pretty good about it working since both models have the same resistor in the lamp circuit. (According to the schematics anyway...) The way they show it in the drawings though, the light would come on as soon as the power cord was plugged in - and I know that isn't right.
The good news for now is the new bearings arrived this afternoon and the motor runs nice and quiet again.
It looks like there will be enough room for the new switch / light once the old micro-switch and the push-button plunger assy are removed. But I won't know for sure until I see it.
Willie