a tricikel
#11
Hillarious Willie, Thanks.
Steve
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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#12
hi more pics


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krv3000, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Feb 2012.
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#13
Wow! That's coming along nicely Bob. Smiley-signs107

Ed
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#14
(05-09-2012, 05:00 PM)krv3000 Wrote: hi all well all told the time spent on the project will be 5 months but i had no part of the build i just got involved with the wiring of it its all dun gnaw and ready for its sva test

Are you sure it needs SVA, there is a provision for "Rebodying" if you use enough parts off of one donor car, You might have enough there, If you can use a little piece of the original floor pan as a foot rest it is almost certainly just a matter of updating your V5, Anyway it's worth checking out, not that the SVA is that bad, and for cars at least it's now called the BIVA, I'm not sure about Trikes.

Kit car Magazine puts out an SVA/BIVA special publication that gives all the best tips for getting you through without too much drama.

Best Regards
Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
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#15
hi well their is only the engine and box and back axle but their all off different cares and he don't have a log book and as he puts it if it wont pass a sva then it ant fit to be on the road
krv3000, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Feb 2012.
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#16
(06-11-2012, 09:03 AM)krv3000 Wrote: hi well their is only the engine and box and back axle but their all off different cares and he don't have a log book and as he puts it if it wont pass a sva then it ant fit to be on the road

I agree it should be able to pass an SVA to be on the road,

Keeping in mind though the parts can come from different cars as long as they suit the car on the V5 paperwork, as you might need to fit a recon gearbox or axle or whatever, so that's OK, but if you haven't got a V5 then I'd go for SVA too, and technically that is all of the running gear except the front axle.

The pain with SVA and BIVA is the little things like the protrusion rules, They are good to have and mostly make good sense but some are really over the top. Replica cars are unable to use Brooklands Aero screens that have been in continuous use since the 1920s because the wing nuts don't comply and the edges of the casting are too sharp, by the time the pedestrian you've just run over is lying against your windscreen I doubt he'll care about a scratch from a wing nut 17428

And it's more than just that, things like bonnet (hood) latches, Soft roof fasteners, door hinges, headlights, indicators and other similar parts have all been responsible for SVA failures, for example, the door hinges on a 1932 Ford don't comply, so if you use a completely standard bodied car using "hot rod" running gear and critically an aftermarket chassis it wont pass SVA primarily because the door hinges have corners but build the same car with an original chassis and then you can run with mechanical brakes that hardly work and you can keep your sharp door hinges, It's just a bit Mad really.

Don't get me wrong though, the BIVA and SVA are great compared to the New South Wales system I used to work with, That was a "Rort" with a limited number of consulting engineers charging whatever they wanted for a report certifying your car's compliance with the design rules, Some guys were charging thousands of dollars to certify cars that were clearly unsafe but technically compliant.

Best regards
Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
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