Frankenmill: Bridgeport J head onto Victoria U2
#1
I thought I might as well open up a thread on this, even though I don't expect to make any progress on it for some time. The step-pulley J-head arrived yesterday from Western Austraila, thanks very much to Darren (Mayhem) who tested it, purchased it on my behalf, partially dismantled, secured it on a pallet and boxed it in for the transcontinental journey and then took a day out of his busy schedule to drop it into a transport depot. Very much appreciated Darren.
I unpacked the box today and revealed the beginning of what I expect to be a long-term project.
   

The goal of the project will be to have a sturdy machine with the versatility of the Bridgeport (including tilt and nod, although the latter promises to be a major challenge) along with power feed on the table, saddle and knee; maintaining full horizontal capability without having to dismount the head. And learning a lot along the way.
The key to this project is going to be finding where this part
   
attaches to this part
   

I'm thinking of using duct tape and taking light cuts.
Lathe (n); a machine tool used in the production of milling machine components.

Milling Machine (n); a machine tool used in the production of lathe components.
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#2
I'd consider making a new over-arm for the U2, with the 'nod' knuckle built in. It would be a huge project, possibly requiring having a new casting made, but it would provide the strongest support for the J-head.

If there was any way to build it with the dovetail below the swivel section, you could still use it to attach the arbor support without swapping back to the original. I would think you'd have to swing the J-head up out of the way, but watch your head when you're walking around.

A simpler option would be to change over-arms to switch from horizontal to vertical. You always wanted a gantry crane anyway, didn't you?
Mike

If you can't get one, make one.

Hawkeye, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jan 2013.
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#3
That's something to think about Mike. I think it would make the project hugely expensive though, particularly as a new overarm would have to have the dovetail ways machined, without having it in front of me at present I estimate the overarm is about 42" long, way beyond my capacity to machine dovetails.
I'm fortunate enough to have a spare overarm from the machine I dismantled for the power feed parts, so I can get away with a bit of experimentation.
I've just been having a look and a scratch of the head and one idea that has come to mind is to mount the head on a pair of heavy plates, like a gigantic hinge, with one half of the hinge mounted to the face of the machine where the U2 vertical attachment is currently mounted, and the other half able to swing out of the way to enable horizontal milling. Given that hinged vertical attachments have been employed by companies such as cincinati, it might be workable. Not being able to slide the head forward on a ram would be a drawback.
Lathe (n); a machine tool used in the production of milling machine components.

Milling Machine (n); a machine tool used in the production of lathe components.
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#4
Continuing the hinge idea...
Hinge to allow the head to be swung to the side out of the way, but only for storage (ie not a precision hinge mount for actual milling).
For work, you mount head to the ram using the ram dovetail. Some form of quick release for clamping the head to the dovetail, then you remove the connection between the head and hinge.
I'm thinking along the lines of the offside portion of the head female dovetail mount being removable so the head could be swung across to engage the nearside of the dovetail, offside dovetail part fitted (perhaps using dowels or some other form of locating mechanism) - then locked to the ram dovetail.
Head is now solidly attached to the ram dovetail and you can move it in and out.

Breaking that down though, you just end up with the head mounted to the ram dovetail and a hinge for storage.
Might be simpler and just as functional to keep the female dovetail on the head solid and use some form of simple jib to support it during mounting and allow it swing out of the way. Support the head on jib the in a position far enough forward to withdraw the ram, then just swing it out of the way. Reverse the operation to fit it.


Steve
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#5
Stripped the head, into the drink with it for a while. The filler and paint is chipped down to the casting around the rim where the power head bolts on, so I plan to strip the whole casting and refinish it.
   
The spindle bearings are silky smooth. I wrapped the quill and spindle assembly up for safe keeping. If I ever get to the stage of putting this thing back together, can someone remind me that it's in the filing cabinet. Big Grin
I'd already stripped the sections of the power head, had it all soaking in some 'simple green' for about a week with intermittent scrubbing. The gear housing is almost ready for primer
   
and the belt housing is coming up ok
   

There are a few bits and pieces that need replacing, the tilt worm that goes between the head and the knuckle has been abused, looks like someone tried to 'undo' the adjusting shaft while the four bolts that hold the head to the knuckle were still tight. The shaft has been twisted off and the gear set damaged. Had a heck of a time getting the broken shaft out but got there in the end. I'm thinking that if i put the worm gear back 180degrees from where it was, the damaged teeth will be in a position that never gets used, so i'll only need the worm and shaft.
Darren sent me a truckload of documentation, manuals, parts diagrams etc that have been extremely helpful.

I've been coming up with all sorts of ideas about how I'm going to mount the head to the ram, think I've hit upon a workable scheme. I have to split my tractor over the next few weeks so probably won't make any progress on this.
Lathe (n); a machine tool used in the production of milling machine components.

Milling Machine (n); a machine tool used in the production of lathe components.
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#6
I took the housing out of the tub of 'simple green' this afternoon. I've been dreading the task of stripping the old paint and filler off it; here's the result of a week in the SG and half an hour with the pressure washer.
   
Still a few of the more tenacious bits of coating left but the pressure washer got under the filler at the chipped edges and just lifted 99% of it away. Hard to keep out of the way of the back-spray when washing something with this many nooks and crannies, I got soaked. Good thing the weather has finally taken a turn for the better.
Lathe (n); a machine tool used in the production of milling machine components.

Milling Machine (n); a machine tool used in the production of lathe components.
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#7
Which flavour of "Simple Green" are you using Pete?

Steve
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#8
(09-22-2017, 06:35 AM)SteveG Wrote: Which flavour of "Simple Green" are you using Pete?

Steve

This one https://www.bunnings.com.au/simple-green...r_p4470510. It's marketed as a concentrated refill for their household spray bottles. I know they have a wide range of stuff but this is the only one I've seen here so I thought I'd give it a try after reading positive comments on several forums. Don't think I'll be washing the car with it.
I've given the spindle bore a liberal spray with WD40 to hopefully avoid any surface corrosion, the outside of the casting has taken on a brown hue almost instantly.

After taking the housing out of the tub, I poured the well-used mixture over my tractor, left it for a while and then crawled all over (and under) it with the pressure washer, got to put it in the shed next week and split it in two to replace the clutch, install a new hydraulic pump and several other big jobs on it. The SG made the washdown go pretty well, and this was all with it diluted about 15:1. Didn't make wallowing in the mud I was making any more pleasant though.
Lathe (n); a machine tool used in the production of milling machine components.

Milling Machine (n); a machine tool used in the production of lathe components.
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#9
But... but... but... the mud was cleaner than it was...
Logan 200, Clarke 7x12, Index 40H Mill, Boyer-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder, HF 4x6 Bandsaw, ...
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#10
If there's any chance the bits might be sitting around for a few months, don't rely on WD40 for corrosion protection. Its mostly solvent and has very little oil in it to create a long term protective film.
I use a decent coat of grease/oil/lanotec etc, and if I think it might extend past summer into next winter also seal it in a plastic bag or wrap with plastic wrap to avoid any condensation issues. I usually also wrap in rags before bagging as the rag protects the plastic from being damaged on sharp corners particularly when you've got a bunch of related bits stored in a tub etc.

Thanks for the Simple Green info. Didn't realise Bunnings had it, and in smaller quantities. If it works at 15:1 its pretty cost effective too.
I've looked at the commercial grade Simple Green with the green label in the past when I was looking for a something for my parts washer, but a 20L container of that is ~$200 which was a bit rich. After trying a couple of other water soluble products it now has diesel in it ;)
If I need to degrease afterwards I've been using Chemtech CT18 which is readily available from most auto parts suppliers.

Steve
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