Stuart No 4 Steam Engine
#41
As Mike said, it has to be annealed for a bend like that, but I would stick with the stainless. That handle necks down quite a bit and would be pretty weak in brass. Besides, the contrast between the brass and stainless looks better.

Not sure why yours broke. Maybe it got too hot in that necked down area.

Tom
[Image: TomsTechLogo-Profile.png]
Reply
Thanks given by:
#42
Haven't been giving the little engine the time I was before, but still working at it. Been making scale fasteners to replace the machine screws I used during assembly.
[Image: aESytibIobwFioba9-aK6LsARSWXSnjs527h0ul2...5-h1246-no]
[Image: s040QbxMIIDMYyurJGckGKeqpjfZCHL_hvZpwu7m...5-h1246-no]
[Image: fp-lT5iqLQ7ewgRJ52EPfg2EydiqQy9OatWtZWip...5-h1246-no]
[Image: ED7zEXjq-ohVzRpYWznBMTDrklky-sK4q7ud2Vh6...2-h1246-no]
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Reply
Thanks given by:
#43
Made a globe valve for the engine. Silver soldered the body together, any suggestions on cleaning it up.
[Image: wzJLOaEHNUDdaMvjBXSoV5VtQ10fkdf4oTdNpXtq...31-h398-no]
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Reply
Thanks given by:
#44
Nice job on the valve, Greg. It almost looks like a full size model.

Metal prep from your automotive paint store (phosphoric acid) will clean it up like new.

Tom
[Image: TomsTechLogo-Profile.png]
Reply
Thanks given by: f350ca




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)