Drill Chuck Tap Handle
#1
I saw a video on YouTube and decided I needed to make a Drill Chuck Tap Handle. I don’t have a spring loaded tap follower yet, and needed a way to start threads straight on my Mill. It took me an afternoon to complete the project. I learned a few more techniques while working on it. This was the first time I used boring bars. After learning my boring bars sucked straight out of the package, so I did some grinding they cut not to bad. Probably not the best surface finish on the bore. But I’m happy with how it turned out. 

   
The main body turned down and bored out to fit drill chuck.

   
One of the handles that threads directly into the side of the body in a blind hole.

   
The second handle that engages the Chuck as well as threading into the other side of the body.

   
I attempted to round off the end of the handles.

   
The handles threaded into the body showing the pin the engages the chuck.

   
The pin engages the chuck in the hole for the chuck key.

   
The handle assembled and on the chuck.

This was a fairly simple project that taught me a lot. It’s going to be extremely handy. I can’t wait to have a project that I can use it on. 

I want to find a way of protecting it somehow from rusting since my shop gets humid in the spring while the snow is melting. 
Possibly do some bluing. 
Is Bluing hard to do?

Trevor
Lathe - Craftex CX701, Mill - Craftex B30 Mill/Drill, DRO - blu-DRO
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#2
I'd check with local gunsmiths about blueing or see if there is a plating shop in the area that can black phosphate the parts. BTW, looks like you did a nice job.
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#3
(12-25-2019, 10:54 PM)Dr Stan Wrote: I'd check with local gunsmiths about blueing or see if there is a plating shop in the area that can black phosphate the parts.  BTW, looks like you did a nice job.

Thanks Stan.
Lathe - Craftex CX701, Mill - Craftex B30 Mill/Drill, DRO - blu-DRO
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#4
Looks good! Thumbsup
I like the double duty feature of the screw in handle.
You may also want to check out my video on power tapping for a simple way to tap on the mill.

Brownell's carries a cold blue that works very well. It's called Oxpho-Blue.

Tom
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#5
(12-26-2019, 10:23 AM)TomG Wrote: Looks good! Thumbsup
I like the double duty feature of the screw in handle.
You may also want to check out my video on power tapping for a simple way to tap on the mill.

Brownell's carries a cold blue that works very well. It's called Oxpho-Blue.

Tom

Thanks Tom. 
I have watched your video on power tapping. Unfortunately my Mill doesn’t have reverse, as of yet anyway! So power tapping would be a bit of a pain right now. 
I would like to get reverse set up on my Mill at some point.

I will check out the cold blue from Brownell. 

Trevor
Lathe - Craftex CX701, Mill - Craftex B30 Mill/Drill, DRO - blu-DRO
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#6
Looks nice.

Bluing is easy. Buy name brand solution; I use Birchwood Casey, because it is available locally to me. Part must be spotlessly clean (rubbing alcohol or acetone), and use clean cloths (shotgun cleaning patches are ideal).

Heat the part in an oven just enough that it is very warm, but not too hot to handle. This helps start the reaction and makes it a deeper/darker blue. When you get the finish even, stop the reaction by rubbing with oil (I use gun oil), and wipe it down. A light wipe of thin oil will keep it looking good for years.
Full of ideas, but slow to produce parts
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#7
(12-25-2019, 05:19 PM)Cross Slide Wrote: This was the first time I used boring bars. After learning my boring bars sucked straight out of the package, so I did some grinding they cut not to bad. But I’m happy with how it turned out.
That was a big milestone in my learning curve when the part went right from the package to the grinder (files in my case.) I hope it made you feel good, that you are finally "getting there."
Your results look good. Thanks for the share.
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#8
Welcome Karl! Welcome
Willie
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#9
Welcome to the forum Karl!!!
Logan 200, Clarke 7x12, Index 40H Mill, Boyer-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder, HF 4x6 Bandsaw, ...
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