Checking My Nuts
Bawling
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
Reply
Thanks given by:
Fast forward almost 5 years.

I gave away the mill that started this thread to a colleague at work. I never did get the X axis lead screw nuts installed. I handed off all of the parts to him but he doesn't have the skills to complete the repair so I will be doing it for him. Of course I'll need a lathe and mill so I'll be getting a lathe in the fall and a mill sometime after that. In the mean time I practised using FreeCAD to model up the three major parts.

I have a question about boring out the large hole in the housing. It'll start out as a rectangular block of steel and I'm wondering if it's best to bore out the hole before the final shaping of the housing or after? I'm concerned about stresses being released and distorting the hole?  Chin

Ed

         

   
Reply
Thanks given by:
Thats a lot of material being removed, its going to distort. I'd rough drill the center, then machine the outside, then do the final bore.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Reply
Thanks given by: EdK
(06-03-2020, 08:22 PM)f350ca Wrote: Thats a lot of material being removed, its going to distort. I'd rough drill the center, then machine the outside, then do the final bore.

Thanks Greg.
Would cast iron be less likely to distort?

Ed
Reply
Thanks given by:
Not sure Ed, haven't worked with large pieces enough to say.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Reply
Thanks given by:
Agree with f350ca. Rough bore, outside, finish bore.

As to distortion, much of that will be due to heat. Keep your chips small, and your cuts reasonable, and stress will be minimized. Use oil to reduce heat. Unless your chips are coming off blue and smoking, you will be fine.

Cast will be less susceptible to distortion, but if stresses get to high, it won't warp, it will crack. You can always recut threads if distortion is an issue, but a cracked part is scrap.
Full of ideas, but slow to produce parts
Reply
Thanks given by: EdK
Gray iron tends to be more stable than steel, but it's expensive and creates one hell of a mess when machined. Not sure you could handle that Ed. Big Grin

I would stick with steel for that part and follow the excellent advice already provided.

Tom
[Image: TomsTechLogo-Profile.png]
Reply
Thanks given by:
Yea, after checking the cost of a chunk of cast iron I'd need, I abandoned that thought. Already have the steel so may as well use it.
Thanks for the advise.

Ed
Reply
Thanks given by:




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)