10-19-2012, 07:13 PM
So Darren, are(were) there threads in it now that it's out where you can see it? It looks just like the one in a Bridgeport head.
Tom
Tom
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Kondia FV-1 Head disassembly
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10-19-2012, 08:46 PM
Nope, no threads in there at all. The hole is small and of the small taps I had, the 3-48 tap was the only one that fitted without being loose. One of the problems was that it kept turning in the bore. I managed to pin it by applying pressure on the quill stop screw and then I went a little harder tapping in the e-z-out than i did when I tried it last time. I could have done with a third hand.
Once I was able to give the e-z-out a little twist without the ball lever turning,it wasn't too difficult to coax it out. Just had to go slow and not pull too hard. It is bent and will need replacing but I wonder if the smaller hole gives it more strength? I have read that these commonly snap in two in Bridgeport's.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
10-21-2012, 08:39 AM
Well done,
Might be time to buy a lottery ticket Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
10-22-2012, 09:26 AM
I may just have to do that Rick!
The head is completely disassembled now and the gearing, shafts, bushes etc have been cleaned and inspected. Most of it looks OK. The worm that rotates the head is damaged at the very start of the thread on one end but I can file/re-shape this. Next task is to remove the spindle from the quill and check the bearings. I need to look at the drawings a little more though, as the NMTB30 spindle is quite different to the R8 one, which is more like the BP. I'm in no rush, so I'll just plod along and see how I go. Its not as if I have a stack of jobs lining up that need finishing to put bread on the table (there'd be a more svelte Mayhem if that were the case!!!).
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
10-22-2012, 01:38 PM
What? bread will make you svelte? I don't think so ( I have pics to prove it but you'll need a court order to see 'em).
Keep workin' on the Kondia we're all living vicariously through you. 
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
10-22-2012, 11:05 PM
You missed my point Steve - which was if I depended on my mill to feed me I'd starve!
I'm glad you are enjoying the thread. I'm enjoying the tear down and gaining a good understanding of the mill. As I said, there is no rush on this project, so I'll just plod along
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
10-23-2012, 05:35 AM
Well Darren, at least you got it at the right price, you can afford to take a little time with it, as you are adding value with every little job you finish, and it would be easy to sell if you ever want to especially in the west as machine tools are a bit thin on the ground there if I'm not mistaken.
Regards Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
10-23-2012, 07:41 AM
Too right Rick - that is the way I am looking at it. Since I bought this mill I have checked the classifieds each week and I have seen only two mills. One was $3900 for a manual and the other was a $45,000 CNC.
Sorry Steve, the internet has foiled you again. Does it help if I say this? "Oh Steve, you are such a card  "
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
Last weekend I spent a little time putting the motor back together after a good going over, thoroughly cleaning the bearings and repacking them with grease, and finally a coat of paint. I chose red, as the bearings are open and I want to be able to see if grease starts to escape!
I had to make a new motor pivot bolt, so I found an old UN bolt that was too big and turned the shaft down to 14mm for the pivot and 12mm for the hole in the motor mounting place. Finally I turned a M12x1.25 thread and secured the motor in place with a Nylock nut. Once that was done, I placed the rebuilt pulley assembly (I'm sure I posted pics on this but I cannot find them [EDIT: I found the post HERE.]), along with the brake and the high/low shifter. You may recall from earlier pictures that some clown had busted off the high/low lever and welded a bolt in its place  I turned up a new shaft and two new knobs (I replaced the plastic ball on the brake as well). The brake wouldn't lock into position on its cam and I found out that was because an undersized bolt was used, so there was too much slop. Additionally, the two pins that screw into the pulley assembly and ride in the hi/low selector had been replaced by some ill fitting bolts. I replaced all with some brass screws that I turned up.Note the thickness of the ring changes, so in one position the screws look too long but just right in the other position. I skimmed the locking collars whilst I had the assembly apart. Brake lever with brass screw and nut In place. Note the close fit on the high/low collar Not the best pic, but the only one I have that shows the "bolt" handle and the cheap plastic ball but it gives you the before and after pics that you all like so much: Post edited to add in link (as noted above)
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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