07-15-2012, 11:52 AM
Looks good from here. I like to keep the blank near the tailstock to avoid spring and feed the cutter towards the headstock in a conventional upcut, just like you were doing. If the blank is thin or the arbor small, then a support/stop needs to be added in an appropriate location if you see things flexing. I've put teeth on 1/4" shafts where a drilled/split block in a vice was used instead of the tailstock. Also, be aware that the OD is an indirect reference. The actual reference is the center of the blank's bore. If the OD is off, allow for it when you set your depth of cut. If the gear is mounted on fixed shafts when in operation, you might want to cut them as zero clearance and then test for fit. Too tight, then back into the mill with it for another .005 pass, and you'll find the rotational adjustment of value in doing that. Just some ideas.
You're still missing the dog - how's that coming? Make it thick, else the clamping screws will bend it. Mine uses a drilled hole in the middle instead of a V. Leaves a horrible mark on the arbors, I've rounded the edge a bit and it's better, but a V would be best. Or just don't tighten it so much..
You're still missing the dog - how's that coming? Make it thick, else the clamping screws will bend it. Mine uses a drilled hole in the middle instead of a V. Leaves a horrible mark on the arbors, I've rounded the edge a bit and it's better, but a V would be best. Or just don't tighten it so much..