Todays Project - What did you do today?
Tom,

This saw was sold by Rockwell/Delta as either a wood or metal cutting bandsaw, I bought the saw used, from my wife’s uncle, a retired GM executive, so he bought all of the attachments. As I stated earlier, I have zero interest in anything involving wood, so I’ve have it set up for metal cutting, with the saw speed at the slowest rate.

I have the original manual explaining the gear mechanism that the knob, engages/disengages, depending on where it’s turned to.

When I got the saw, it had a broken locking pin, in the mechanism, so about 12-15 years ago, I had the whole drive mechanism completely apart.
jack
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I finally got the hi/low drive system functional on the old Delta bandsaw. It required an 8" pulley and a 60" belt  for the high range, plus a hinged belt tensioner for the motor. I doesn't appear that there ever was one, but how they got by without one is beyond me. I also had to make some spacers to raise the saw and make room for the tensioner, and consequently relocate the position of the belt guard. It took more effort than anticipated, but it sure is nice to finally have five speeds. Thumbsup

Tom

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Smiley-signs107

Tom, why is there a flat on the top of the rear cover? I'm just curious if there is a particular reason for having that when the top of the front cover is rounded?
Willie
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I looked through all the literature I could find on that saw and never figured how they tensioned the belt. The base has slots front to back for the motor but that wouldn't adjust the tension. In the end made a hinged mount like yours.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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(03-07-2018, 08:28 PM)Highpower Wrote: Smiley-signs107

Tom, why is there a flat on the top of the rear cover? I'm just curious if there is a particular reason for having that when the top of the front cover is rounded?

No idea Willie. It is factory though, so the Rockwell designers must have had a reason. Chin

Tom
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I finished up the fence for my bandsaw today. It's been a while since I've done any extensive machining on steel and it seemed to take FOREVER. Definitely followed some of my own advice and plunge milled as much as I could. The design is basically a copy (from memory) of a fence on a DoAll saw that I used to use. It's short enough that it can be used close to the blade and rock solid, even though it only clamps on one end. Can't wait to try it out.

Tom


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Very nice Tom! Thumbsup

I'm sure it'll work just fine.

Ed
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Tom, one thing I've found with bandsaws is that every blade tends to pull to one side when using a fence. It helps to have a fence that can be adjusted to an angle that lets the blade cut parallel to the fence. Even when cutting metal, the fence can be set by cutting wood.

You cut in a few inches along the fence, then measure the piece. If it isn't parallel, you adjust the angle and take another cut in a fresh part of the wood. Repeat until the cut comes out parallel. Then it should be good until you replace the blade or something damages the blade.
Mike

If you can't get one, make one.

Hawkeye, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jan 2013.
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Thanks Mike, I'll keep that in mind. It wouldn't take much to add and adjustment.

Tom
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I tied my hand at upholstering today and got a good start on reupholstering the seats in the Rambler. The cloth on the old ones and the sunny side of the vinyl was literally falling apart. I opted for black vinyl with pleats and neon green top stitching to compliment the future paint color. The rear bench went pretty slow because I had to decide how to mark everything in a way that I could remember how to put it back together. I also took a ton of pics as it came apart just to be safe. The line laser guide I made for the sewing machine worked great on the top stitching. I just placed the line on the seam with the proper offset and sewed away. For the most part, they came out reasonably straight for an amateur. :)

Tom

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