07-29-2015, 08:45 AM
Kenny,
The steel part I made is the round part on the right with the dowel pressed through. It has a 1/2" long pin on the left that is pressed into a hole on the C/L of the valve. The offset pin is machined on the far right with the top hat shaped wear piece is pressed on it.
The power valve adjusts the size of the exhaust port as the rpm's change to widen the power band. It's a pretty low stress area, so the repair should hold just fine. In fact, the actuator has been riding on the aluminum end of the power valve for who knows how long and it barely showed any wear.
We have a Yamaha YZ250 2 stroke and I just bought a WR450 4 stroke. That gets us around the trails and through the woods as fast as our skill and courage allow. :)
Tom
The steel part I made is the round part on the right with the dowel pressed through. It has a 1/2" long pin on the left that is pressed into a hole on the C/L of the valve. The offset pin is machined on the far right with the top hat shaped wear piece is pressed on it.
The power valve adjusts the size of the exhaust port as the rpm's change to widen the power band. It's a pretty low stress area, so the repair should hold just fine. In fact, the actuator has been riding on the aluminum end of the power valve for who knows how long and it barely showed any wear.
We have a Yamaha YZ250 2 stroke and I just bought a WR450 4 stroke. That gets us around the trails and through the woods as fast as our skill and courage allow. :)
Tom
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