Harrison L5 lathe rebuild
#51
Nice patchwork, thanks for posting the interesting follow - along.
sasquatch, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Jul 2012.
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#52
After a long break from the lathe I have finally got back to it ( Again lol ) just carried on where I left off with the mounting of the electric boxes.

This it the alloy backing plate and the top shelf mounted in location.

[Image: Latheinverter003.jpg]

The front plate is getting drilled and counter sunk and the rear frame tapped to suit, I am mounting a red 3 phase socket to the rear of the panel so the motor can be plugged in, this way if I want to test 3 phase motors I can just wire a plug to them and use the lathes inverter to test things or even wire something else 3 phase up and use the lathe controls.

[Image: Latheinverter004.jpg]

This is the alloy box for the emergency off switch that I am fitting to the front of the machine its knee height, easy to knock power off .....just in case I ever need it. As you can see the box is not square which made marking off the corner that needed cut out more hassle, I hacksawed and drilled the section out and cleaned up with files.

[Image: Latheinverter006.jpg]

I have removed a section that was stopping the box fitting flat and it just needs bolted on now.

[Image: Latheinverter007.jpg]

In final position with switch fitted.

[Image: Latheinverter009.jpg]

This is the backplate and shelf all bolted up and the inverter and switch box fitted , the speed legend plate is bolted under the switch box as it was ackward to see mounted on top of the head stock as standard.

[Image: Latheinverter008.jpg]

This is the box lid drilled with the layout of the switches , there will be main power on/off , a power on indicator light, start and stop push buttons, a forward/reverse switch , a speed control rotary knob , a suds switch and lamp switch.

[Image: Latheinverter010.jpg]

This is all just test fitting and the plan is tho then paint things before final fitting and installing wiring, I already know of distractions coming up but am just going to keep at the lathe till its done now so more updates to follow SOON !

Cheers Mick.
Micktoon, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Sep 2012.
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#53
Mick,

Excellent choice in VFDs! I have that exact same one running my mill. Thumbsup

Ed
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#54
Hi
Mick
Nice to see you back on the jobDroolDroolDroolDrool
Is that head stock full of gears now Smiley-dancenanaSmiley-dancenanaSmiley-dancenana
John
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#55
Nice work Mick - I'm looking forward to seeing your progress on this.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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#56
I have got more done to the lathe today, it does not look like much on photos but there has been lots of thinking of what will fit where and where cables have to go etc . Then lots of drilling holes for cable glands and also mounting things so tapping half them and just bolting others. The main rear alloy plate is some horrible gummy type alloy and just clogs drills and hole saws up so I have had to use WD40 on them which is last thing I wanted with painting being one of the next stages but no way around it really and the lathe still needed a good de -grease anyway.

This is the switch panel box with most of the holes drilled , the reason for drilling the larger holes in the box is the threaded part of the cable glands are not long enough to pass right through the backing plate and the box so I needed space for the securing nut on the back of the glands.
The way I am doing it I will be able to paint the bracket , backing plate and box then re assemble and wire everything up off the lathe then just mount the whole lot pre wired and plug in the motor , lamp , suds pump and just have the flex to the knee height emergency switch to connect, this way it can all be done, then put out the way until the rest of the lathe is done, also in the future if any component fails it should be able to be unplugged and took off with out opening the switch panel up.

[Image: latheswitchbox1002.jpg]

This is the rear of the panel , the motor will plug into the red socket on the back here, I will also have flexes with plugs on them for the coolant pump and the lo - volt lamp.

[Image: latheswitchbox1003.jpg]

The finished switch panel will look something like this , there is room to make labels above each switch on the panel, the two big switches at the bottom will be for the coolant and the lamp , they are much heavy duty than needed but were cheap. Then there is stop , start , below these are forward/ reverse and speed control as well as the main isolator and power on light.

[Image: switchpanel001.jpg]

Next job is to get all these bits ready for primer ........... then paint them grey.
Cheers Mick.
Micktoon, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Sep 2012.
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#57
It is starting to come together now Smiley-dancenanaSmiley-dancenanaSmiley-dancenana
John
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#58
Mick,
looking really good Thumbsup
Smiley-eatdrink004
DaveH
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#59
One of these days I need to learn to weld. This is a monumental undertaking. Kudos to you.

"Billy G"
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#60
Good Evening All , Well at long last I have got a bit more done to the Harrison. I have done various things without photos , like diamond filing the burs off every single cog tooth in the whole gearbox ....... not a five minute job , I have all new bearings for the spindle and new oil seals and generally cleaned and inspected everything. I managed to get the gear cog I needed to replace because of chipped teeth, thanks are due to Peter ( Bacup Hillbilly ) who had a spare gear cog and shaft , the holes in the clutch plates are oval and the pins worn, this was making the clutch grab and sometime not disengage , I have got new roller bearing pins and Rob Wilson is kindly going to drill and press the new pins in ( I was not confident of doing a good job of it ) Cheers Rob. The other part that was worn was a brake pad disc that is operated by the clutch lever, I did not even know it was there so have never used it ! It had wore down to the countersunk fixing bolts was was steel on steel not bronze on steel. The original was made of a bronze type brake material with particles inbedded in it, I could not get any of this so have made one out of bronze, it should still do the job.

This is the worn out part, the three holding coutersunk set screws had just been rubbing.
[Image: Alloyframe018.jpg]

2 inch bronze bar, skimmed to size.
[Image: Alloyframe024.jpg]

Drilled out in a couple of stages to almost the right ID , the drill is car boot job , rusty but sharp where it counts !
[Image: Alloyframe026.jpg]

I marked out the three holes and drilled them on the Bridgeport.
[Image: bronzedisc001.jpg]

I then skimmed the top surface so it was the right depth to the countersink s, then parted off.
[Image: bronzedisc002.jpg]

The new disc in place along side the old one, its only after looking at this photo I think I might mill the three recessed flats into it as per the original so it has even contact with the steel collar it presses against , as it is it might wear uneven around the holes ? it wont do any harm to do it anyway.
[Image: bronzedisc003.jpg]

Cheers Mick
Micktoon, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Sep 2012.
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