Customizing a field stock for a pump shotgun
#11
(10-18-2014, 07:23 PM)Highpower Wrote: I actually have one of those Japanese style hand saws. I have a regular cross-cut handsaw too. I couldn't cut a straight line with either one of them if my life depended on it. I just don't have the wood "gene".  Sadno

just use the Japanese razor saw to cut a shallow kerf around the stock so it won't splinter out on you.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

If life seems normal, your not going fast enough! Tongue
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#12
David, I'm not sure what I have qualifies as a "razor" saw. It is the combination blade type. (Rip and cross-cut.) It doesn't have a ridged spine. One of the problems I always have with it, is that it wants to jump around on the wood as I'm trying to start a cut. I found this video on YouTube, and even the guy demonstrating the saw had his blade jump as soon as he started pulling on it. And he's cutting on a square piece of lumber. I can't even imagine me attempting to hand cut around a slick surfaced, tapered, oval shaped stock without slipping and jumping around scarring up the wood.

It worked ok for cutting off the dowel rods I glued in though.  Big Grin



Willie
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#13
saw he broke the handle off of is too big to use for what your doing, the right saw would be small enough to cut a line about 1/16 inch wide like this

http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X75300-Preci...B00004Z2U4

but a razor knife will work.

DA 
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

If life seems normal, your not going fast enough! Tongue
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#14
Ahhh....OK. That makes sense to me now. THANKS! I always thought those were jewelers or "hobby" saws. I used to have one years ago for cutting the rotor blades for my RC helicopter. Great for doing super fine cuts on small work. Long gone now though. I'll have to pick up another one (saw). I think I would stand a better chance with that over a razor knife. I can't even cut a straight line in cardboard with a box cutter unless I use a straight edge, and even that is no guarantee that I won't wander off from the straight edge. It's pitiful.....   Rotfl
Willie
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#15
Willie look at it this way it may be a hobby saw but guns are your hobby.

I understand what your saying I can't drill a 3/32 hole thru a 6 inch long hunk of D2 and keep it on center,

Put some tape around the stock where your going to cut then take the saw and work in short sections and cut a shallow groove all the way around the stock and when you use the miter say it won't chip out, you really only need to do the side the blades going to be pulling out on, but by going all the way around you have a nice can't get rubbed off line for sanding too.

DA
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

If life seems normal, your not going fast enough! Tongue
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#16
(10-19-2014, 10:21 AM)dallen Wrote: I understand what your saying I can't drill a 3/32 hole thru a 6 inch long hunk of D2 and keep it on center,



DA

Yikes
I wouldn't touch that job with a 10 foot pole!

Do they make gun drills that small?  Chin Big Grin
Willie
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#17
(10-19-2014, 10:44 AM)Highpower Wrote: Do they make gun drills that small?  Chin Big Grin

not that I can afford
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

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#18
I went to Home Depot this morning to check out their tool rental department and ask about the miter saw. 1 day rental is $41.00 plus a $75.00 deposit. I asked if I could get my choice of blades to use and the answer was no. So I looked at the saw they had and it held a well used 60 tooth blade. Most of the printing on the side of the blade was worn off and had some burn marks on it. Didn't look very sharp. The guy said if I want to use a different blade I would have to buy one in the store. I looked at blades while I was there. The "better looking" 80 tooth fine cut blade was $65.00 plus tax. $41 + $75 + $65 = $181.00 to make a single cut on a stock..... I don't think so!  Yes, I would get the deposit back. But it takes them a week or two to get it back to you. So if I'm going to buy a blade anyway I searched the net and found the cheapest 12" sliding miter saw I could find. $177 shipped to my door. That's less than a Harbor Freight saw!!!!  Rotfl 

For as much as I'll use it, even being a "cheap cheerful Chinese" tool, it should last me forever..... if it works. I do have some window trim I'll need to replace next spring too.

p.s.
H.D. didn't have any razor saws either. Just junk Stanley (China) keyhole saws. Bleh
Willie
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#19
So what 12" sliding miter saw did you order?

Ed
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#20
Have you ordered the 12 inch saw yet Willie?
I know bigger is better and a 12 inch is more manly but i've used them and would recommend the 10 inch size. A Buddy bought a name brand one (forget the Brand) and I used it when we were building his house. The bigger frame doesn't seam as rigid and the blades are a lot more money. And they still won't cut a 6x6.
I use a Makita 10 inch and have to say its deadly. With an extended fence and a clamped on stop block it will cut repedative parts that you can't feel the difference in length.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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