removing name plates
#11
I'll have to see if I can get them over here. If not I'll have to get some sent from the US
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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#12
I was thinking of a little round collar, center drilled and countersunk just enough to center over the head of the drive screw would allow oe to drill out the drive screw. Just a thought.
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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#13
(06-26-2012, 05:38 PM)Mayhem Wrote: I'll have to see if I can get them over here. If not I'll have to get some sent from the US


You should be able to, but if not, let me know and I'll send you some. I have a local fastener house that keeps a fair assortment, or used to. Plus I will be going after a few sizes for my projects.
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#14
Thanks Tony, I'll keep that in mind.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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#15
Just let me know when you want them, and what size. If you get ready before I do, not a problem. I am in the place pretty often, and it's not off my beaten path to and from.
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#16
(06-26-2012, 03:14 PM)Tony Wells Wrote: I need to do the same thing to my mill, and also my Monarch lathe. The Monarch has heavy cast aluminum plates, to my thoughts there were to simply grind way the head and remove the plate. Then I hope there is enough to grab with vise-grips to "unscrew". They originally aren't intended to be removed, but as we all know....where there's a will...

On the mill, the plates are more the normal thin etched and silkscreened tags, so the Monarch option may not work well. A slot in the head, coupled with a little persuasion from a thin chisel usually works. If not, I will simply drill them out and go with the next size up. There are lots of variety in U-drive screws, so replacing isn't a problem. If the back is accessible, a small pin punch can be used to knock them right out.

If you do end up drilling for new ones, pay careful attention to the hole size. It's rather critical.

Sometimes it looks and works better if you replace with the drive screws small screws machine screws, 4-40 or 6-32, tap the hole and thread them in.

Another way to mask the plates is to coat them with grease, works better than masking tape. Just slather a thin layer of grease over the name plate, paint the item, let dry, then wipe off the grease, along with any overspray.

Walter
starlight_tools, proud to be a member of Metalworking Forum since Apr 2012.
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#17
Well just tried the slotting/unscrewing method and failed miserably Bash

Mutilated and snapped of heads thus far.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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#18
(06-29-2012, 11:26 PM)Mayhem Wrote: Well just tried the slotting/unscrewing method and failed miserably Bash

Mutilated and snapped of heads thus far.
Oh dear, sometimes things just don't go how they should. Chin
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DaveH
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#19
(06-29-2012, 11:26 PM)Mayhem Wrote: Well just tried the slotting/unscrewing method and failed miserably Bash

Mutilated and snapped of heads thus far.

I see you have run into some really tight ones. In a case like this I just grind the heads off. redrill a little to one side and use new ones when ready.

"Billy G"
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#20
(06-30-2012, 08:05 AM)Bill Gruby Wrote: I see you have run into some really tight ones. In a case like this I just grind the heads off. redrill a little to one side and use new ones when ready.
"Billy G"

Billy G, does "redrill a little to one side" mean that these little buggers are too hard to drill?
Steve
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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