BXA QCTP
#51
(03-09-2012, 12:13 PM)DaveH Wrote: Here's mine,

I could never find the spanner, so got rid of the nut.



I used a thrust washer (bearing)




Smiley-eatdrink004
DaveH
Nicely done Sir! Smiley-signs107

Willie
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#52
(03-11-2012, 08:52 AM)Highpower Wrote: Agreed. I bought a dozen of the $8.00 CDCO holders and a box of set screws from McMaster-Carr and never looked back. They work just fine.

Do you remember the part number for the set screws? I ask only because I am too lazy to go down stairs and measure them Smile

Arvid
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#53
(03-11-2012, 09:39 AM)arvidj Wrote:
(03-11-2012, 08:52 AM)Highpower Wrote: Agreed. I bought a dozen of the $8.00 CDCO holders and a box of set screws from McMaster-Carr and never looked back. They work just fine.

Do you remember the part number for the set screws? I ask only because I am too lazy to go down stairs and measure them Smile

Arvid

McMaster part number is 93245A159 for flat point.
92905A416 for dog point.
These are M10-1.5 20mm long. Package of 25 flat point set screws. (BXA size)

Ed
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#54
(03-11-2012, 09:39 AM)arvidj Wrote:
(03-11-2012, 08:52 AM)Highpower Wrote: Agreed. I bought a dozen of the $8.00 CDCO holders and a box of set screws from McMaster-Carr and never looked back. They work just fine.

Do you remember the part number for the set screws? I ask only because I am too lazy to go down stairs and measure them Smile

Arvid
I like to use the dog point screws - you may not. Part # 92905A316

In any case, they are a 8 x 1.25mm thread, 20mm in length. (AXA size)
Willie
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#55
(03-09-2012, 12:13 PM)DaveH Wrote: Here's mine,

I could never find the spanner, so got rid of the nut.

I used a thrust washer (bearing)

Smiley-eatdrink004
DaveH

Hello Dave legendary idea Dave,

I despise the tendancy for all toolpost designs to twist just a smidge during the tightening process, surely a needle thrust race fixes this problem once and for all, After I check the load bearing capacity of the needle races I will be adding this idea to each of my lathes as well as any other machine with a toolpost and I think the lock lever on my radial drill as well as the clamping nuts on my tailstocks could use some help as well.

Some folks will know, others will realise when it's pointed out, but might not have realised that the effectiveness of clamping bolts is greatly reduced by friction particularly the friction on the vee threads where the pitch form angle multiplies the frictional forces but also about 30% of the clamping force is used up overcoming the friction under the nut or bolt head, the needle race should give back this loss.
Regards
Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
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#56
(03-09-2012, 12:13 PM)DaveH Wrote: Here's mine,

I could never find the spanner, so got rid of the nut.

I used a thrust washer (bearing)

Smiley-eatdrink004
DaveH

Dave, just curious, how did you do the blind, metric thread? single point tool in the lathe?
I figure once I get the number of toolholders I need I won't need to reposition the tool post nearly as often.
I went to the shop to snap a pic of the temporary solution.
I cut up a ring spanner that I had little use for-
   
Only after getting back here to the computer and downloading the pic I realized I hadn't caught the fact that I cut the end of the box wrench off at a convenient length, It resides on the TP permanently so there's no "searching" for the wrench.
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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#57
(09-01-2012, 07:13 AM)stevec Wrote: Dave, just curious, how did you do the blind, metric thread? single point tool in the lathe?
Hi Steve,
The quick answer is I didn't, I didn't even cut the thread.
I found the right size nut, changed it from a hex nut to a round nut and squashed (erm ... press fitted) it into the holder.

I know I cheated, Smiley-dancenana sure is a good clever cheat Thumbsup Smiley-dancenana

Although I prefer to call it re-engineering RotflRotflRotfl

Smiley-eatdrink004
DaveH
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#58
(09-01-2012, 07:13 AM)stevec Wrote:
(03-09-2012, 12:13 PM)DaveH Wrote: Here's mine,

I could never find the spanner, so got rid of the nut.

I used a thrust washer (bearing)

Smiley-eatdrink004
DaveH

Dave, just curious, how did you do the blind, metric thread? single point tool in the lathe?
I figure once I get the number of toolholders I need I won't need to reposition the tool post nearly as often.
I went to the shop to snap a pic of the temporary solution.
I cut up a ring spanner that I had little use for-

Only after getting back here to the computer and downloading the pic I realized I hadn't caught the fact that I cut the end of the box wrench off at a convenient length, It resides on the TP permanently so there's no "searching" for the wrench.

I did like Steve did, I cut the open end off of a 1" Craftsman end wrench and just leave it on the tool post. The short open end part is a required tool on the mill for the ER16 collet chuck now days.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

If life seems normal, your not going fast enough! Tongue
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#59
No harm ever came from buying a load of cheap or second hand /swap meet spanners and modifying for specific jobs, I made three sets of "bent spanners" one set bent into an "S" shape, the second set of open ends bent to 30 degrees just below the head and the third set aside for specific jobs, the 18mm ring had the ring cut to get access over a tube on a flared nut and the handle bent and twisted to allow easy access to the difficult fuel injectors on a London Black Taxi, the 10mm was modded to access the glow plug on the same model, at least I think it was the 10mm it's simply been the glowplug spanner ever since I think it was a 19mm open ender that became a fuel injector preload tool for the old Cummins PT unit injectors.
I always buy these cheapo tools when they are offered at the right price. if you warm the tools to the right temperature it is possible to bend them without cracking the chrome, but it depends on the quality of the plating as well as the temperature and I guess even the way you hold your tongue as you do the heating, so expect some flaking chrome, which needs to be removed to prevent the razor sharp flakes slicing through your fingers, which is as painful as it sounds. To remove the chrome you can strip it all electrolytically but what I do is use a wire wheel on a bench grinder to tear the flakes off and a diamond lap to dress any sharp edges.

Best regards
Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
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#60
The only problem I see with your nifty handle Dave, is that, in my befuddled state I'll free up the wrong lever in midst of a job!
The worst part of losing your mind is the period during which you realize it's happening.SadnoHappyno17428
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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