Ed,
Going back to the first one - that looks like it will work, sometimes it can help by applying a clamp across the two arms, to stop them splaying out.
DaveH
(03-17-2012, 11:51 AM)DaveH Wrote: [ -> ]Ed,
I think the second one you may have to pull the gear and bearing off together. I am assuming the gear is just on a keyed shaft - and is not retained in any other way.
DaveH
Dave,
That was my thought also. I'll see if I can tell how the gear is attached to the shaft before I try anything drastic.
Ed
Ed ,
The separator is designed like a wood chisel, with the taper towards the bearing it applies minimum pressure to the back side of the separator and maximum pressure to the tapered side forcing the bearing to move while applying minimal pressure to the gear in back. things to look for in a good separator are hardened steel and a smooth taper like a wood chisel to reduce binding when forcing the separator in the gap. witch you will find nether in a HF brand.
A good bearing separator is the tool your looking for they come in many sizes.
Hope this helps.
Jerry.
(03-17-2012, 03:51 PM)ETC57 Wrote: [ -> ]Ed ,
The separator is designed like a wood chisel, with the taper towards the bearing it applies minimum pressure to the back side of the separator and maximum pressure to the tapered side forcing the bearing to move while applying minimal pressure to the gear in back. things to look for in a good separator are hardened steel and a smooth taper like a wood chisel to reduce binding when forcing the separator in the gap. witch you will find nether in a HF brand.
A good bearing separator is the tool your looking for they come in many sizes.
Hope this helps.
Jerry.
Jerry,
Thanks for the info but I "got'r done".
Ed
The custom puller worked well. I was even able to use it to remove the third bearing that was pressed up against the gear.
Thanks for all of the suggestions.
Ed
[
attachment=276]
[
attachment=274]
And the other spindle bearing is also a tapered roller bearing, as you'd expect.
[
attachment=275]
(03-17-2012, 04:21 PM)EdAK Wrote: [ -> ]The custom puller worked well. I was even able to use it to remove the third bearing that was pressed up against the gear.
Thanks for all of the suggestions.
Ed
And the other spindle bearing is also a tapered roller bearing.
Hi
That mill head looks like a well put together bit of kit
Well shown & described
(03-17-2012, 04:45 PM)doubleboost Wrote: [ -> ]Hi
That mill head looks like a well put together bit of kit
Well shown & described
It's not too bad. The only thing that I've seen so far that I'm not pleased with is the mesh of the spindle gear and the driving gear are very sloppy. The other gear fits are nice with no slop. Unfortunately there is no way to adjust the slop out so I'll have to live with it. I examined the gear teeth and didn't see any unusual wear so maybe it's not an issue for a hobby machinist.
Ed
Ed,
Well done
Quite a smart puller you made.
Dave.
Dave,
Thanks.
It almost took as much time to make that puller as it did to dis-assemble the mill head.
Ed
looking good Ed I will bookmark your thread as if I ever change my mill to the ISO30 spindle it will come in handy. Keep that puller handy as it would also be easy to make longer reach arms for it. tom