MetalworkingFun Forum

Prior to starting on my new Gas engine project I thought I would check the tramming on my small mill.
So I started in my usual way, Hopping the stylus over the "t" slots wishing I had a flat plate to ease the job. Frustrated I hunted around the shop looking at any likely candidate, when I saw my latest Yachting magazine lying on the bench!! now because I used to help a friend in his print shop, I know that good quality paper is made to a 5% tolerance, magazine covers are .0038" that's .00019 variation.( dry paper)
So off came the back cover, still nice and flat, and on to the mill.
The stylus provided just enough pressure close any air gap that may have been under the paper, but it was not marring the gloss surface. it worked like a charm. gliding over the slots and giving me reliable readings.
Now this is not April 1 and i would like someone else to confirm my results before recommending this method, But I am certain i will use this in the future
Brian

Well, the proof will be in the pudding. Please let us know how the surface finish and dimensions on the parts turn out. Sounds like a cheap experiment to me and I hope it works.

I picked up something a little more substantial for my tramming "plate".

[attachment=8095]

Those big bearing races are a great way to do it. I hope I can someday get my hands on one!

As my buddy Sherman would say, "That thing is the berries!". It is so smooth and easy to use it makes the tramming almost fun.

My next little project is to make a storage box for it so I can throw it up on the shelf and keep it oily and pretty. I am also going to make an indicator holder and mount a dedicated dial indicator so there won't be any excuses for not tramming. I think I can make one that will fit/nest inside the I.D. of the bearing race so it will all be in one box for easy one-stop shopping. If and when I get around to it I'll start a new thread and post pics.

Hi
Lads
I use a brake disc (rotor)
Ground dead true
You can pick up a obsolete stock item for pennies
Just ask your local parts supplier
John

(04-10-2014, 04:13 PM)doubleboost Wrote: [ -> ]Hi
Lads
I use a brake disc (rotor)
Ground dead true
You can pick up a obsolete stock item for pennies
Just ask your local parts supplier
John

John,

Are you saying it's ground dead true out of the box or did you have to grind it yourself? That could be a great, cheap solution it it's dead true out of the box.

Ed

as near as we will ever need
any out of true will give a break judder
John

(04-10-2014, 04:48 PM)EdK Wrote: [ -> ]

(04-10-2014, 04:13 PM)doubleboost Wrote: [ -> ]Hi
Lads
I use a brake disc (rotor)
Ground dead true
You can pick up a obsolete stock item for pennies
Just ask your local parts supplier
John

John,

Are you saying it's ground dead true out of the box or did you have to grind it yourself? That could be a great, cheap solution it it's dead true out of the box.

Ed

I think the one I have fits an 83 Olds and cost me about 15 dollars and is as true as I can measure it, nice thing about new ones is that they are ground and not turned. I keep it in the box and plastic bag it came in,

And like John said its as true as I'll probably ever need, but then I could also put the surface plate on the mill to tram it with if I think I really need to go that far.

DA

I can see the disc surface being dead true but what about the surface that would site on the mill table? Sorry, I'm not that familiar with rotors.

Thanks,
Ed

All the machined faces are to all intents & purposes dead true
John