MetalworkingFun Forum

Just to be sure I do this correctly, on angular contact bearings the thin side of the inner races should face each other, correct?

Ed

That would be my choice. AKA: back-to-back.

So I went to install the bearing closest to the MT3 end of the spindle and the tube supplied with the Micro Mark kit was a real sloppy fit over the spindle. I started to pound on it but didn't like the feel so I aborted. The tube was barely catching the outer perimeter of the inner bearing race. I got on McMasters website and found a piece of tubing that would fit it much better so I added it to my cart. But at $27 it seemed a rather expensive solution. After thinking about it for quite a few milliseconds it finally dawned on me that I could 3D print a guide for the Micro Mark tube to help center it over the bearing. After revision number 2 it was a perfect fit.

Got'r done with the help of a little 3-In-One oil!

Ed

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Remember - that puller kit was designed to remove and install the factory standard size deep groove ball bearings. If you are installing tapered roller bearings or the angular contact type ball bearings you have to compensate for the race differences on your own I'm afraid. But you managed that like a boss!

I never press fit bearings dry. Always use a bit of light lubrication.

You do realize once you send that Amazon kit back you're going to need it.

(06-08-2023, 08:05 AM)Highpower Wrote: [ -> ]
Remember - that puller kit was designed to remove and install the factory standard size deep groove ball bearings. If you are installing tapered roller bearings or the angular contact type ball bearings you have to compensate for the race differences on your own I'm afraid. But you managed that like a boss!  

I never press fit bearings dry. Always use a bit of light lubrication.

I didn't even have to pound it on. I used the tube and the very long bolt with a nut and squeezed it on.

Ed

(06-08-2023, 09:36 AM)Vinny Wrote: [ -> ]You do realize once you send that Amazon kit back you're going to need it.

Of course.

Ed

Oops! Luckily it was easy to pull out the spindle and put the gear on correctly.  

Ed

Oops!

[attachment=18365]

Good!

[attachment=18366]

The bearing got started crooked. I didn't realize it until I had started tightening the tool to squeeze it in.    

I"m assuming I'll need to pull the spindle and try to gently knock it out with a brass drift. Is that correct, or is there another way to get it out?

Ed

[attachment=18367]

Personally I would use the brass drift on the high side of the outer race to see if you can knock it "straight" again and then continue with pressing it into the bore of the head stock. It's not an ideal situation but it may be the lesser of two evils based on it looks like it's more IN already than OUT. I would be more worried about damaging the spindle trying to pull it out again. The cast iron of the head stock will yield more easily than the steel in the spindle will.