MetalworkingFun Forum

easymike29,

Thanks. The width of the countersunk is too short for any reading. Maybe I was doing it wrong... Anyway, my dad reported the aluminium test pieces works! So I'll stick to moving in the countersink bit 1.5mm.

I went out this morning to the metal shop to try get some 304 before the scheduled dental surgery in the afternoon. Bought about 1.3m cut into 4 pieces of 14mm diameter.



Didn't expect them to be within 0.01mm (13.99mm, according to my Mitutoyo digital vernier)!

I also bought a lamp on magnet:


Got home, started working and get to the last stage where I need to do the countersunk hole. This was used successfully on aluminium but it didn't seem to work on steel:



Anyone know if this is only for aluminium? It just refused to go in after clearing up the burrs.

By the way, 304 cut much easily than the silver steel I tried while making the setover centre. When I get to below 10mm, the chart on the lathe suggested going at 1400 rpm. I usually turn steel at 660 rpm, moving in the cross slide at 0.5mm per pass, for diameter below 20mm.

I won't be doing any turning tonight. On medication to kill the pain after the surgery. I'm into my 3rd dental implant and this one has some complication (infection). The dentist has to remove the old screw, drill and tap a bigger hole, and put in a bigger one. The pain is terrible to bear, worst than the other 2. Probably due to the infection. The stitch wound is still bleeding. Been tasting my own blood since after the surgery. Eeeewww....

Regards,
Wong

Thanks for sharing that Wong, now my teeth hurt.

(07-23-2012, 02:25 PM)stevec Wrote: [ -> ]Thanks for sharing that Wong, now my teeth hurt.

Hi
Wong
Stainless is very nice to machine on a lathe
Could he not have just put a helicoil in the hole for the implant
Sorry mate i hope it gets sorted for you
John

Hello guys,

Thank you. It will take a few days for the aftermath of the surgery to go away. Ice pack, anti swell, antibiotic, and pain killer for the next couple of weeks for now.

Are you folks able to help me with the countersink problem? I don't understand why the zero flute countersink bit refused to cut.

Regards,
Wong

Wong,

I happen to like the zero flute countsinks and generally have good luck with them. I've never tried them on SS though. I also use one like this that works very well, but again, I've not tried it in SS.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTP...A=308-0416

Ed

Ed,

I've the one shown on Enco site but for 82 and 90 degree. Just when I need the 60 degree, I don't have it... sigh... Anyway, good excuse to go visit the shop.

I didn't have good experience using this type. Lots of chatter when using them. Maybe I used them wrongly.

Regards,
Wong

Wong,

You can't cheap out on cutting tools. The one I linked to is a well known brand that, I think, is made in the USA. I have a cheap version of that style that I linked to and it doesn't work nearly as well as the good one. I bought it mainly for countersinking wood so it's OK for that but not for steel.

Ed

I've only used that type on wood. I prefer the single flute, myself. In SS, I would say run pretty slow <60 RPM, and use quite a bit of pressure. A bit of oil will help also.

You have possibly work-hardened the piece so try another one and do what Tony suggested.

Ed