Draw Bar Mallet
#11
Dan,

Yours is a R8 spindle mine is MT3 spindle.

When using MT3 and the like the draw bar should just be "nipped" up, the taper should hold it.

R8 need to be held in reasonably tight, a lot tighter than the MT3 I have.

If my draw bar comes loose most times nothing will happen except I will hear it rattling.
If the draw bar on your R8 comes loose there is every chance the spindle R8 bore will be damaged.

The extra nut on your draw bar acts as a locking nut to prevent the draw bar coming loose.

I think your draw bar is best how it is.Smile

May be someone else would like to comment.Smile

Smiley-eatdrink004
DaveH
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#12
Hi
This is my rough and ready draw bar tool
I used copper for the hammer bit
As you can see it is of welded constructionBig GrinBig GrinBig Grin
[Image: P5070053.jpg]
The draw bar is simply a piece of 7/16 unf studding the brass bush makes tightening a bit smoother
The handle is only 6 inches long a good one handed nip is all that is needed
The mill is a Chester 626 with a R8 spindle
[Image: P5070055.jpg]
[Image: P5070057.jpg]

John
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#13
John,

I like the idea of a brass bush underneath the nut. I'll have to make one for my mill.

Ed
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#14
(05-07-2012, 11:14 AM)DaveH Wrote:
(05-07-2012, 06:40 AM)stevec Wrote: Neat DaveH, where were you all the years I sparred with my mill drill and/or searched for either the wrench or the brass mallet.
Hi Steve,
I was probably in hospital having the cut above my eye stitched up. Big Grin

DaveH

Very nice work Dave, and a GREAT story! You just can't make that kind of stuff up. Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin

A bit off topic, as I don't have a draw bar mallet. Sadno
But this is close:

[Image: Hammer.jpg]

It was one of my very first projects way back in high school metal shop. (No dinosaur jokes please...)
We had to employ the use of 4 machines. Band saw, lathe, horizontal mill and surface grinder. It was much prettier back when it was first completed. Rotfl

But after 40 years of being tossed around in various tool boxes, mushroomed over several times and ground down again, along with several other types of abuse - I still have it and it's still going strong. Tongue
Willie
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#15
Willie,
Well 40 years not bad mateThumbsup Smiley-signs107


Now where's all the sympathy RotflRotflRotfl
Smiley-eatdrink004
DaveH
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#16
Small hammers of all types are always useful.

Ed
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#17
Thanks for your insight Dave. I wondered about that ever since I got my mill.
Collecting tools for 30 years.
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#18
This thread rang a bell so I dug around and found a drawing I made two years ago of a drawbar hammer/wrench. I still haven't made it yet but as soon as I get my mill back together I'm going to tackle it. Actually, it looks like it's mostly a lathe project so I can get started on it while I wait for some parts to arrive for the mill.

Ed

   
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#19
Ed,

What's FHMS? Flat Head Machine Screw?

Do you loctite the long set screw for the body & handle? Looks build-able by someone with my limited skill & knowledge.

Thanks for sharing.

Regards,
Wong
Wongster
http://www.wongstersproduction.com

Proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Mar 2012.
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#20
(05-08-2012, 06:58 AM)Wongster Wrote: Ed,

What's FHMS? Flat Head Machine Screw?

Do you loctite the long set screw for the body & handle? Looks build-able by someone with my limited skill & knowledge.

Thanks for sharing.

Regards,
Wong

Wong,

Flat head machine screw is correct.

I would Loctite the set screw to the body and handle but not to the brass face. I want that to be replaceable.

If I remember correctly, this is not entirely my design. I think I got the idea mostly from someone else's design. You can make the handle round instead of flattening it like the drawing shows. I intended to flatten it then add some wooden sides to it to make it a bit fancy.

Ed

EDIT: Added PDF of plans.


.pdf   hammer_wrench.pdf (Size: 68.35 KB / Downloads: 11)
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